Hey fellas,
i seemed to have run myself in a problem.

On the water outlet on the far left hand side of the head, u have the 2 bolts that hold down that piping for the water outlet. Now i was bolting that back on until one of the bolts BROKE inside the head. SO im wondering how he f*ck am i gonna fix this, i then attempted to drill the broken bolt from inside the head. i was then hoping the rest would be able to pull out. WHen it didnt i started to panic. I ended up puting the halerma down withthe gasket, and then the water outler fitting. I was hopin that the one bolt will be able to hold it down but i have a feeling this is not goin to rectify the problem at hand. Does any one have any tips to hold this thing down to the heead so it wont leak water when its runnin???

Need help

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You mean the heater outlet on the Driver's side of the head ? (Next to cylinder number 4 - above the starter)

Hmmm, thats two I've heard of in the last week... scary...

ok, you COULD drill it out and re-tap the hole, but without taking the head off and using a drill press, i couldnt vouch for your straightness of accuracy....

anyone else got any ideas ?

J

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Depending on how deep the bolt broke maybe you could weld a nut carefully to it and try getting it out with a wrench.
Maybe try soaking it with penetrating oil for a couple days or heat the area up with a torch. Then try an easy out. But becareful you could make a worse mess if you break an easy out in it.
Personally I think I would probably pull the head off and use a drillpress. Maybe do some head work to it at the same time.

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67 Traveller - Needs restoration
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looks like the only way to go atm is to retap the hole.

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Damn man, that sucks. I did the same with a head bolt stuck in the block itself.....luckily i got it out.

What I was told was the 'easy out' option.

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No more Minis!......For now.

The heater outlet studs are always scary. I think you could drill and re tap ok. I don't think you'd need to be too paranoid about getting the drill totally straight (by eye would be ok), but I'd try and find stainless steel bolts to replace rather than original studs.

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1958 Morris Minor 1000 - "Nigel"

Be aware that the original studs (or the 1/4" UNF bolts sometimes used) are Grade 5 steel. Hi-Tensile.
Standard S/S bolts are crap, more likely to shear off than the standard Grade 5 bolts.

Hey I know this as I've fixed lots of S/S bolts busted off in outboard motors...

BTW I just fixed the same water outlet problem on Friday for Aaron- I just drilled it on centre with a 5.5mm drill, and ran a 1/4" UNF tap in to clean it out. Took 10 mins to fix.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ah i feel much better now..
thanks fellas

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Had a similar prob with the thermostat housing with a hi tensile bolt that sheared. I busted the easy out in the remnants of the bolt and there was much cursing and hucking of tools.

I had a cold beer and thought about it - ended up dremeling the remnants of the bolt and easy out with a carbide tip(geez they remove metal!!) then put a helicoil kit thru it. Worked a treat and thankfully the hole had already had a helicoil in it and came out with relative ease. The frustration is known only to mini owners and i am empathising with you all the way...

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

LMAO thats a classic example.

Anyways all is good, i got my mates grandpa to come around and retap the hole, one of which was drill at an angle so we straightened it up, and put a bigger stud bolt thru it. One thing i didnt know is that the hole actually goes thru to the water sleeve, i paniced for a microsecond when it had happened. so it should be fine if not better now.

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Ok thanks to Rod, he sent me a couple of gaskets for the flange.

BUT

i started to fit the fitting back to the head, WHEN, the other bolt sheared itself much like the other one. Now, im unfamiliar about this "easy-out" stuff, what exactly does it do? Can i get it from autobarn or bursons? Oh and whats is Heli-coil, and hows it work?

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They're pretty easy, you can buy them as a set from most hardware or tool suppliers(they come in different sizes for different size bolts). Supercrap have them on the shelf as well for bugger all, don't know what they're like in quality though.

Simply, they are like a reverse thread bolt except the thread is very coarse and it's tapered a little.
You drill a hole in the offending bolt and then insert the easy out. As you turn the easy out in the direction you would to remove the broken bolt, the easy out thread bites down into the metal and grabs the bolt as it turns.


Heli coils are replacement threads for worn out or soft metal holes. In a heli coil kit you will get a drill, a thread tap and coiled steel threads(these look like small compressed springs) as well as a thread insertion tool.

The stripped out hole is drilled to size, tapped with the supplied thread tap and then the replacement thread is inserted using the special insertion tool. The replacement thread is usually tougher than the parent metal and will last forever when installed properly. They can be tricky to fit if you're a novice, but they are a godsend.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Is there any practical way to stop thermostat housing studs filling with cooling system crud and re-siezing? The last one I did, I loaded the thermostst housing holes up with grease in the hope that this might slow the process.

Any better ideas?

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1958 Morris Minor 1000 - "Nigel"

Neverseize, Molycoat or Coppacoat are all excellent metal based protectants
(Molycoat seems to work the best IMHO) About $45 a small tin from industrial suppliers.

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Too many cars, and too little time.