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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 4:07 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 2:49 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Hey all, well as you know my little mini doesnt quite fit into the "standard" part of the haynes manual...

So I'm looking at what would be the most correct method of timing my car...

(998cc Turbo, RE13-T Cam, HIF-6, 12%1316 head, 8.5:1-ish compression, Pulsar Dizzy / No Vac advance)

I remember the Doc talking about setting the timing at over 4000RPM to 30' ATDC - but how the hell do you measure that ?

Also, I recall there being a "rule" about boost - for every 2psi boost, you remove 1' max advance or something.... not 100% sure....

I'm about to pull the pulsar Dizzy and modify the max advance stop to remove a little max advance....

Little help ?
J

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:40 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
James,
I find TDC accurately with a pushrod in #1 plug hole and a dial indicator, then mark TDC on the front cover, and on the harmonic balancer.
Then I put 15* and 30* marks on the balancer pulley by measuring around the periphery with a thin 6" steel rule.

I run the motor to 4000+ rpm with the vac advance disconnected.
You WILL need a strobe timing light.

Most stock to mild Minis run well at 30* full advance. To really get it right with your turbo etc spec though, you need a dyno run.

<edit> modifying the stop in the Pulsar is pretty involved, it has hardened pins running in hardened slots. Nice design but hard to mod.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:47 pm 
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1098cc
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"Then I put 15* and 30* marks on the balancer pulley by measuring around the periphery with a thin 6" steel rule. "

Can you remember the measurments you used ?

Bugger about the hardened pins..... hmmmmm

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:05 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Dia of balancer (outer part), not pulley = 120mm.
circumference is 120 x 3.1416 =377mm.
1* therefore = 377/360 mm = 1.047mm.
so, 15* = 15.7mm
and 30* = 31.4mm.

Here endeth the lesson.
Enjoy! 8)

<edit> Of course if you have the $$$ handy, MiniMania sells this nice Bling S/S one, already marked in degrees. :P
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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:44 pm
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Location: Far North Queensland
Make sure you know at what engine revs your dizzy is fully advanced. Some dizzy's do not fully advance until higher than 4000rpm. I got caught once with Aldon Red, did not fully advance until close to 5000rpm. :(

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:41 pm 
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Just watch the strobe, rev until the mark stops moving... :wink:
Pulsar dizzy is all in by 4000.

I think original 1275S one advanced all the way to 7000.... :shock:
But I bet these days on 98 unleaded, it would give more power with a more common curve.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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