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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:12 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
WOW, so u were telling the truth after all......!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:14 pm 
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Moke + Wife = out of the doghouse
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 11:41 pm
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Location: Perth-Western Australia
Only "truths" spoken in WA!!!
You should be able to order this thru BP Outlets....

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:32 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
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Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
I mite just look into that... Tho mite give this castrol formula r a try 1st. But good to know its still available...!!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:55 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed May 05, 2004 12:29 am
Posts: 157
Location: adelaide,soon to be darwin
I was told to use castrol gtx coz its made for older cars and is thicker-therefore is less likely to leak out?? I could have been led up the garden path tho

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off to NT I go


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 6:39 am 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
20W/50 is 20W/50...
GTX is OK for running around, but I found it loses its viscosity too easy when thrashed... as we do. :P
Works well in the MiniMatics though. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:15 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:44 pm
Posts: 1084
Location: Far North Queensland
Repco or Autobahn have it, or try the Castrol place in Scott Street, has a new name now, Castrol Edge, you want the 25W/50.

Black S, yeah yeah, between the Moke, the #@%$ing rain and Slycoon Larry, done very little. Still haven't unpacked the shed post Larry, then I have to get the generator fixed etc etc, you know what it's like. . .

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 8:21 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
If you read carefully on the Castrol website (as you do) and look closely at the product spec PDF's for both Formula R 25W50 and Edge 25W50 the only discernable difference is that they say Edge has "detergeant additives":

Quote:
SAE 25W-50 APISG/CD. Incorporates full API SM detergent and sludge control additive system.


Where Formula R did not document any such additives.

Also worthy of note:

Quote:
Synthetic components increase load-carrying characteristics for crankshaft bearing protection in older technology street machines and ?big bore? competition engines.


:?

Here she is, have a look for yourself: http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_in ... 969_05.pdf

It seems that they have taken away Formula R pdf for good. I know where there is a few bottles left, I better go get them! :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:01 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:55 am
Posts: 11264
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Well I had HPR30 in mine when the gearbox went! Not saying it was the oil, but every other oil change that i've had the car, i've used Formula R, and every one since the box rebuild, Formula R! :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 2:38 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:56 pm
Posts: 205
Location: Bunbury, WA
atm i'm using Redline synthetic 20w-50. not exactly value-for-money at $35/Litre, but it seems to give more power (could be my imagination :? ) just had to try it but may not use it again - just gonna keep it in till after the dyno day and drags then might try some of this castrol stuff... should put it back on the dyno after that to see if theres any difference...

G


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:35 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 9:16 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Upper Ferntree Gully, Vic
I gotta stick to the Penrite HPR40, been running it for over ten years on the same engine no problems with the oil, only the operator :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:56 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Chong,
Both the old Formula R and the Edge whatever 25W/50 are SG rated, that really determines the detergent levels etc.
Beware marketing bumpf... (hey you should know that, being in market research! :lol: )

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 2:29 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:22 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Somewhere...... over the rainbow
I've only ever used pretty standard oil in my car but Im told I need a racing type oil now getting more on tuesday...wonder if it makes a difference or not....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 11:20 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:32 am
Posts: 449
Location: Canberra ACT
I really don't believe any of the negative comments I hear about synthetic oil. Welll maybe except one made by the head of Australia's military POL lab when I asked him what was wrong with synthetics..his answer "its too bloody expensive".

Luckilly Minis have a built in wear meter if you want to do some testing. Its on the end of the sump plug. Try this simple test. Run your Mini on any of the recommended convential oils for say 5000 kays. Empty the oil and check the plume of scarf on the magnet. Refill with a synthetic (I use Slhell Helix 15W60) and forget about it for around 10K. Now check the plug.

If you get uncomfortable check the oil pressure gauge. After a few thousand miles the pressure will drop off a bit when things get hot and bothered. You just won't see this with a synthetic.

Many people swear that synthetics aren't suitable for Minis because of the gearbox but this is precisely why its actually better. Check out what the numbers actually mean and you'll realise why.

Cheers, Ian


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