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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:15 pm
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Location: Brisbane
I'm having some delemias at the moment trying to get my engine and subframe out. I've got the haynes and the scientific publication workbooks and havn't had any serious dramas untill it comes to the section where i need to disconnect the steering tie-rods at the steering arms. How do I do this I have taken off the nut that goes through the tie-rod but I can't seem to get the bloody thing off I can't even seem to get any movement at all. Does anyone have any suggestions. i'm a noob at this kind of thing and would love some assisstance.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 7:24 pm
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Location: Berwick
either support the steering arm which is coonected to the hub and belt the tierod out or do it the proper way and get a ball joint separator.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:40 pm 
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sweep77 wrote:
either support the steering arm which is coonected to the hub and belt the tierod out or do it the proper way and get a ball joint separator.


ie... two hammers..

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:42 pm 
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The tierod is a taper and to break it apart you should hit it on the side of the joint where the shaft goes through the steering arm, a couple of good solid hits and it will pop

Jon

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:45 pm 
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1275cc
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Failing that iIt's quite easy to remove the steering column whilst still attached to the hubs............

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 5:35 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
he ^^ means the steering rack - undo the 4 nuts on the inside of the engine bay and take the steering column out... but it can be a real pain to get the U bolts out - easiest to tap them through with a screwdriver from the inside, and keep tapping them as the subframe goes down cos they won't come out all the way till it's 4 inches or so down.

I tend to leave the steering rack attached to the front end cos it means the wheels are still attached to each other and I manouver the subframe around with my trolley jack under the front of the subframe

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:19 pm 
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Yes, yes he does.

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 Post subject: Subframe
PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Location: Central Tilba NSW
BFH?, would'nt a balljoint splitter be a better option
The good ones (scissor type) are not expensive & do the job properly

The right tool for the job I say

Blue

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:54 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Brisbane
so tell me oh wise and a all knowing blue where would I come accross this remarkable tool of which you speak because this is really starting to annoy me


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:58 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: SE QLD
Dont buy the Super Crap ones - the tangs snap at any hint of tension. Repco sells a good one or go to a specialty performance place - yes they cost more but saves a lot of swearing and your throwing arm(yet another piece of junk hurled over the back fence into the bush...lol)

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:05 pm 
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Good ones look like this-
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:06 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:15 pm
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Location: Brisbane
Thanks guys thats hopefully another problem successfully sorted with the help of the ausmini crew. I'll let you guys know if i'm still struggling tomorrow.


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 Post subject: Balljoint splitter
PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:08 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 5:31 pm
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Location: Central Tilba NSW
Have a look at the MiniSpares web site, that's the one you need, any GOOD auto
shop (Repco, Auto Pro) should be able source that type for you.
IMHO don't buy the ones you have to use with a hamer, like the ones they sell at
SuperCrap

Blue

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 Post subject: Balljoint
PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:09 pm 
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Thanks Kev

Blue

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
When I needed a splitter I bought a supercrap one cause repco and the likes didn't have any at the time. Anyway It's given me no trouble yet, but dont know how they go after the 50th use.


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