Why does it cost more for a 1274 motor to be fully rebuilt than an 1100? All the machining and rebuild would be the same. I know gaskets and pumps etc are usually dearer.

Is there something I am missing?

Hmmm.. I agree, I think parts costs are nearly the same, except late model 1275 bearings are a bit dearer, pistons too but not much.
Labour is about the same, ditto the machining.
So how much were you quoted?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No quotes but was talking to GR today (first time, great guy!) about the rebuild in TME. I have an 1100 here ready for the rebuild but was just thinking about holding out until I come across a 1275 for the same rebuild.

Have always been told that it is heaps dearer to rebuild the 1275. I guess the expensive bit is finding the 1275. There has to be an 1100S floating around Wagga somewhere

When I was getting rebuild, the 1275 was very appealing....until I was told that disc brakes were required by law...which then made the 1100 rebuild my only choice.

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No more Minis!......For now.

[quote="Bromley] I guess the expensive bit is finding the 1275. There has to be an 1100S floating around Wagga somewhere [/quote]

There's at least one for sale on Ausmini atm - though I think getting the 1275 short engine for $1k from TK and getting GR to build it up is a better option than the $1700 long engine also for sale.

mate i dont think it should cost anymore to build a 1275. specially if GR is doin
it for ya.

I have had several engines rebuilt in the lst few years. There is little or no difference in the basic cost of rebuilding either a small bore or large bore motor. Thats is from a parts and maching perspective.

However, if you are getting an engine builder to build it for you be very clear about what you are getting built. Once modifications start, like crank webbing, balancing, light weight flywheels, port and polishing occurs then the cost rises very steeply.

A good rebuilt standard motor (either small bore or large bore) that is ready to bolt onto the gearbox should cost between $1500 - $2000 and should last up to 100,000 kilometres and be capable of being driven with spirit. Flogging an engine is a different story though.

A modified sports or racing engine would cost anything up to $10,000 and could also be a very unhappy experience in terms of reliability.

There is no doubt you will have a greater appreciation of performance using a large bore motor and it will run harder with less stress than a highly modified small bore motor. The motors are out there - you just have to look for them.

i have a block but it needs to be bored out to 1380. no main caps thoughs

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

I am told blocks are no good without caps.

This is very true.
You CAN get new caps (4 bolt steel ones) from MiniMania in US, If you've got enough do$h.
But the block needs line boring with them.
It is also possible to get steel caps made here, I believe GR has done them.
I made a steel centre main one many moons ago, if you have a lathe and mill it is not rocket science.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A 1275 motor suit reco will be 500% more than a 998/1098 in same condition.

1275 pistons seem to be about 33% more expensive too.

A 1275 cylinder head will set you back over 100% more than a 12G202 head.

Personally, I think it is like servo's all banding together to up the price of petrol. Just because it's a 1275 part, it automaticly gets a 1275 surcharge.

The funny thing is, GR was telling me last week that a nicely modded 998/1098 will have more ponies than a standard 1275.

What is ironic about this is that a 998/1098 only requires drum brakes, but a 1275, irrespective of the build, needs disc brakes.....go figure

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Website: www.justanothermini.com

Anton
I disagree with that having just done it twice.
The pistons, rings, bearings and other parts are about the same price. Yes, if you buy premium parts, you pay premium prices. However its just a motor for reconditioning that we are talking about.

Because of the rarity of the 1275 they are expensive but the costs were based on the assumption that one already had the motor (either small bore or large bore).

As for the ponies - what happens at 8,000 rpm is totally irrelevant to daily driving. Take Gladesville bridge for example; a heavily modded small bore may just well across it in third gear faster than a 1275 at 7,000 rpm but the standard 1275 will just do it with bags to spare in top gear. It would even pull out and pass the V6 engined commodore provide that didn't incite a race.

When you get the GT going you will find out there is a world of difference between driving a big bore as against a small bore.

Okay - now sitting here waiting for the incoming flack.

l

IF you already have the motor, I can't see much $$ difference at all between reconditioning a 1275, or doing a 998/1098.
Maybe a couple of hundred $$ at the outside.
Right now, 1275 pistons can be had on eBay for less money than most Mini places charge for 998 or 1098 ones.
A 1275 (non-S) oil pump costs about the same as a smallbore pin drive one does.
Most of the rest of the parts needed cost about the same too.

I'll concede that 1275s of all sorts are thinner on the ground than smallbores, and therefore cost much more $$ to buy in the first place.
And YES, you can get decent power from a smallbore, my old 1220 motor went harder than the S short motor that replaced it.
Yes you can get away legally with drum brakes then too, but good luck after 3 or 4 hard stops.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The point of the thread is to query if it is worth rebuilding my 1100 block or keep a look out for a reasonably priced 1275 for the same rebuild.

Time is on my side as the body work still continues.


Anton, GR told me the same thing when I spoke to him on the phone. I have also heard the same thing from a few other people. This is what GR is building in The Mini Experience.

One other question. Can you put an 1100 crank in the 1275? TK mentions it in his for sale thread.

IMO its much better to wait and watch for a 1275 to come up and it will. Like i said earlier there was a $400-500 morris 1300 on ebay very recently. Sure the engine was tired but it had all the gear.

Its just an entirely different concept with the big bore motor. The small bore struggles with 100 kph sustained poke over hills and undulating country whilst the big bore wants to sit on 120 kph and has bags to spare when overtaking.

Just an entirely different ball game for the same cost, once you have the rebuildable motor.
The quick small bore is an expensive proposition as is the real quick large bore but unless your competing somewhere, why do you need it ????