Has anyone purchase this engine from GB's Mini and Moke World? If so what you guys think of it, as in performance wise? As i'm pretty new to mini, I'm not sure if i should rebuild my 998cc engine from my 1968 Mini Deluxe or simply get the complete engine with gearbox from them for $3300. Which option would you guys recommend.

http://www.miniandmokeworld.com.au/engine.asp

Cheers,

Mini Cooper Mania

I think you'll find that its not a good idea to ask most of the mini community about the above Brookvale establishment, coz people start swearing and cursing and the posts have to be locked.

But 33 hunch is alot of motor - you can get a 1275 and rebuild it (maybe by G.Russell who accidentaly is considered to be the best) and probably even reco your g'box for not much more than that). Plus no need to worry about the results of the famous brookvale workmanship.

I dont mean to offend anyone.... havent thought of that in the first place sorry guys.
Anyway, I also have a 1100cc engine sitting around in the garage. You reckon its worth while rebuilding that instead. I've been reading articles online saying it produce more torque out of that engine. And could any of you give me a rough idea on how much a engine rebuild would cost.

Cheers,

Mini Cooper Mania

I would rebuild your 1100. An engine kit from www.Karcraft.com.au is around $500, this gives you oversize pistons, bearings and gaskets. Then you just need the block rebored to suit the pistons, and the crank reground, and bung it together.
Measure the block and crank sizes before you buy though!

<Edit> don't forget a new oil pump, duplex timing chain & sprockets, lighten & balance flywheel, grind the cam, yada yada...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It sounds like you're not only new to minis, but new to engine rebuilds as well. So, whilst Doc's advice is good, it is a compromise between how much you can do yourself and how much you need to pay other people to do it for you.

I think $3.3K for a 998 that you then have to install and get running is too steep and agree there are better options available - where's ADSMINI? what are your thoughts on this given it is what you went through.

Why don't you have a chat to a few different places like Graham Russell Eng, Mini Spares and repairs, or any number of the others as well as Brookvale, and get a full quote on the total cost - rebuilding the engine of your choice, installation, tuning etc if relevant.

You might end up paying that sort of money or more if someone else does absolutely everything for you and you need lots of new parts, but you'll probably end up with a top motor. I suspect it could be done better and cheaper however.

i've just been through this excercise with my gf's escort (i know its not a mini) but anyway.. there a guy here in perth, i'd like to refer to him as 'the man' down a ERR motorsport (escort place)
now he offered all his advice and many years of racing escorts knowledge to help me build a pretty mild but still pretty wild escort engine (its the gf, it has to idle and run smooth)

just a few bits of knowhow make all the difference

stockky 2L with 90 HP with safe redline of 6000 went to a much warmer 140HP with a safe redline of 7500. for the measly pricetag of 2G (full rebuild inc hp oil pump, new cam/rocker assembly, new oversized pistons, chrome moly rings, unleaded valve seats, new valves n guides and all the standard crap line rings/bearings blah blah blah

granted i did all the work myself (except machining) but the moral of the story is, escort parts are about the same price as mini (except pistons (minis are cheaper)) all you need to do is find someone that loves them and not the money they are making from them (this is the problem i'm having in perth with minis)

ok, dr mini you have an interesting point.

(this will arouse an argument i can tell)

which engine is a better base, ie. if i'm gunna throw 3G of parts and machining, at a mini engine.. where is the best place to start?

998/1100 (same thing except crank and pistons (correct me if i'm wrong))
1275

$3300 for an 1098 sitting on a bench? Forget it!!! you can buy multiple complete cars for that price!!!

That's just my opinion though

For that price I would expect a 1275 in the car and ready to drive away...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yes i'm a newbie to engine rebuilt indeed hahhaa. Thanks heaps guys it does helps alot!! I guess I'll rebuild my 1100 and sell my 998 engine. How much do they worth any idea (998)? And what would be your ultimate mod list for a 1100 engine ?

What kind of power outputs can u expect for a mildly tuned 1100 compared to a 1275 how much difference is there?

Don't quote me but I think the 1098's go alright for road car if you do some serious work to it. There is no substitute for cc but you can get the 1098 to run well. The only issue probably is reliability in the long run (I'll probably get hate mail for that comment ) but the 1275's are stronger? stronger cranks, sturdier block, better gearbox etc...

That's what I got from listenning to 1275 v 1098 conversations...

If you are going to do major work to an engine and spend big bucks, best to start off with a 1275 in my opinion. No point doing to a 1098 and spend $$$$ and end up in the end with less than what can be achieved in a stock 1275 with bolt on mods... Hence why I aint going to spend $700 on head work on the 1098. I'd rather spend it on a 1275. There are mobs selling A+ 1275 engines for the $650 mark. That'll be where my money is if I ever get around to breaking the 1098

Then again the flipside is, if you only want good road performance and not racing standards, then a 1098 with some mild head work, cam, etc should go like a scalded cat. It won't be scalded cat on speed (like a 1275 would be) but it will do the job nicely, PLUS, spare 1098's are much easier to get a hold of if it breaks up down the track (I've seen em for sub $100!!) , whereas anything 1275 is rare as hell or expensive. Take yer pick!

I was thinking about if I were ever going to buy a 1275 and do work to it, i'd be too afraid to drive the guts out of it Whereas my 1098... no worries! redline every gear!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I'm new to ausmini and the forums, but I have had experience with 1098 v 1275. In my humble opinion, if you are going to throw 3+k at an engine, I wouldn't bother with a 1098. I'm not saying 1098's are not worth it, just that 1275's are much better 'bang for your buck' propositions. I spent 2.8k getting my 1098 and box rebuilt about 5 years ago, nothing wild, just some headwork, bottom end balance, remapped dizzy, mild cam etc, and while the results weren't disappointing, they weren't staggering either. It didn't really make good power until it came on cam around 2500-2800rpm, and because of the long stroke, they don't really like to rev too much, so the powerband was quite limited. I probably could have got better results with a close ratio box, but that starts to get expensive. If you are able and willing to spend 3+k on an engine, shop around and try to get a 1275. You don't have to get as much done to it to make good power and torque (compared to a 1098), and from there, any money you spend on it, provided you put some thought into it, will just mean more power. I'm not current on pricing, but I imagine for around 3k, you could get a 1275 and box rebuilt to close to cooper 's' spec/performance (but without all the expensive 'genuine' cooper 's' bits). I have driven 1098's and 1275's of all different stages of tune, and I can assure you, no 1098 will outperform a 1275 unless it is built like a handgrenade, and there are reliability issues as well

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What was god thinking when he created minis without round noses??
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MY99 Subaru WRX
1967 Mini Delux
2002 Mitsi Mirage
1993 Honda Prelude

Very tempted to get the 1275 Engine now. However, its pretty hard to get hold of in Perth. Any suggestion where i can get it in other states? I was going thru the forum last nite, someone mentioned karcaft import them from UK. How much are they roughly engine + gearbox?

hmmm i always had the impression that 998 and 1098's were the most reliable in the long run
1275's were bored too much with too much force generated or something and 850s rather weak

the most important thing is how you drive and maintain it

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Yes that's all the difference is, apart from cam profile and head.
A well built 1098, out to 1132 or 1152 with a cam, head work, extractors and decent carb(s) is a bloody good street motor.
A 1275 though will cost around the same to build, and give more power, sure- but you gotta find one first..
They are not as plentiful as they once were.
If you find one, build it!

BTW a 1275 auto motor is just as good, but the oilways in the block need modifying to fit a manual. See my post back a while in Mini mods forum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.