As above. how do you fit an ammeter to a mini?
75 van w alternator

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don't.

an ammeter requires all the current that is running to go through it. waste of time. fire risk from overheating or if you stuff it up, shock risk if you stuff it up - yes even the piddly 30Amps or whatever at 12V will HURT!

better you get a voltmeter that is wired across the appropriate terminals. need a book to tell you which ones.

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yeh theoretically, an ammeter needs ALL of the current through it (in series)
Voltmeters just need a parallel circuit through them to get a reading

depending on why you need a electric thingamy-meter
fit either
Voltmeter can read your battery's charge/how much power left
Ammeter can tell you how much current your batt has and whether or not you can fit that amp n sub in the boot maybe also a playstation and bar fridge

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Heh already got a 4X150w amp w two channels running my pioneer 12" & the other two running the 6X9 2ways with the 4" coaxials running from the deck.

Basically it's so i can see if i'm using more power than the alternator is generating so i can keep an eye on the alt to see if its running properly

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You will get the same info, safely, with a Voltmeter.
It should be connected between the battery cable and body earth, or to both posts on the battery.
If the battery V stays at 12.5V or above, it's charging. Below that, it ain't..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Fair enough i just had one kicking around and thought i'd throw it in.
I got volts in my falcon and can make that bounce with the beat of the stereo, it goes from 16v to 14.5v when i put my headlights on.
Looks like i need to acquire a voltmeter then
thanks all

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14.5 means the alternator is still keeping up

my cortina one drops to 11v when i put my heater fan on.. its the only thing in the car that does it.. god knows why that lil blighter sucks so much power... my amp driving my 12 pioneer at ear deafening beats doesnt even make the guage flinch (did when it was in my beetle.. the lil charge light used to come on with the beats).. but you only need an ammeter when testing for a known fault, or a once off test to see how much power you have left.. just a hand held jobbie that you can put between your battery and postive cable, turn everything on (even the internal light) take a reading and do some maths... its not necesary to have it in the car all the time, just an extra bit of wank factor and a dangerous one at that

yeah, a voltmeter will do the job

If you're still worried, try upgrading to a Rover mini alternator, and a battery with higher CCA (cold cranking amps) Most cars have batteries rated around 370 cca.

If you had a 75amp alternator and a 550cca battery, you'd be worry free. All my cars run this setup.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Was just thinking about it The alternator in my falcon is 80amps(i think) and sails thru every load i can throw at it short of.....well......er.......shorting it out.
The mini has a 400cca batery which is less than 12 months.
and an old stocko alternator of god know what with 15 amps.
If i turn ther stereo up too high the engine starts missing and carrying on, turn it down no worries and its like it never happened. So i think the stereo out does the alternator just a bit if i crank it up to 3/4 but 1/2 is ample to hurt eardrums after a long session or 50.
In future i'm going for an electronic distributor setup so i might as well get a new alt put in at the same time so it can handle the extra current draw

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I have not seen a Smiths Voltameter on Ebay both AUS and Uk. I guess I'll be putting those two Ammeters on Ebay now bugger again

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