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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:05 pm 
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1360cc
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Then 10A will be fine :wink:
don't need anything too fancy for that.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:17 pm 
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so that setup will work?

all i'm getting it to do is make the circuit that would normally be created by the mechanical switch that is the current starter button.

10 amps, you say?

damn your sarcasm.. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:27 pm 
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The only thing I would add would be an in-line fuse (say 1A) between your battery "+" & your shiny new button.



Sarcasm? :? Not me!








the spotty Macdonalds employee this morning wrote:
You're looking slim today, Mr Cushway

That's sarcasm :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:36 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
The only thing I would add would be an in-line fuse (say 1A) between your battery "+" & your shiny new button.

Sarcasm? :? Not me!


i can just use one of those plastic fuse holders like the sort you get on stereos...

awdmoke wrote:
the spotty Macdonalds employee this morning wrote:
You're looking slim today, Mr Cushway

That's sarcasm :wink:


you never know... i could have skinny eyes... :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:43 pm 
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cush wrote:
i can just use one of those plastic fuse holders like the sort you get on stereos...


Yep, but put it under the dash, not under the bonnet (they're not dust or water resistant)


Oh, and I'm sure they're used to seeing customers with "skinny eyes" fronting up after their breakfast bong.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:59 pm 
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hehe...


soo.... let see how i did...

The new diagram...

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how's that? :)


edit.. whoops! to many earths.... quick change it before anyone sees.. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 1:16 pm 
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Very pretty!

Rather than tapping direct to battery "+"
take your "+" from the mini fuse block.

There are two fused circuits - one is on all the time (horn, headlights)
The other comes on with the ignition. Connect to this one.

Then you can't accidentally try to start it without the ignition being on,
and there will be no unfused connections to the battery. Everything else as per your circuit (i.e. still use the little fuse too)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 1:26 pm 
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it's actually quite handy having the direct link to the battery...


it means i can move the car without starting it.. ;)


it's like that at the moment..

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:09 pm 
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easier to do the tappets, too.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:22 pm 
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there you go... i knew i'd done it for a reason.. :)

ah yes i remember... i've got a leccy fuel pump, so if i want to turn it over for some reason, i can do it with out the pump doing it's thing..

oh... so the question of amps....

should i get a 20A or 30A to be safe?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:36 pm 
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Knock yourself out! Not much price difference anyway.

Jaycar Horn relay 30A Cat. No. SY4068 $5.90
Your McMuffin & Hotcakes cost you more than that :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 3:33 pm 
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ok.. just making sure...

i don't have a solenoid... and i don't need one...

the load across the relay isn't going to be more than 30A?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 4:02 pm 
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If you are just replacing the switch,
Astro will still have it's original solenoid :?

Even 850s with a generator had solenoids, didn't they?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 5:57 pm 
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No solenoid was ever in my 850 van.

Cush do you currently have the original 850 starter on the floor near the drivers seat? It needs a fair bit of force to push?

If so you need a solenoid.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 6:49 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
Your McMuffin & Hotcakes cost you more than that :wink:


ROFL

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