And I've adjusted the back and go to do the drivers side front and over the last 2mths (since I last did them this has happened .





I'm guessing this is real bad as my manuals say to inspect for cracks but the bloody cv boot is actually torn open geez (I inspected it last brake job and they were fine).

This is something I wanna learn to do myself (driveshafts are a complete mystery to me), how much work am I looking at, is it relatively easy to get the wheel off and just slip a new boot on and grease it up? I'm aware the cv joint itself is probably stuffed after driving it around like that but it's not rumbling so I might get a bit more use out of it. Also the tie rod boot . My manual says the rod end is probably split if the boot is cactus... is that just a swap over?

, had the washing machine break down today too so finding these rips/tears today has put me in the shittiest mood .

Shard[/img]

heres a nice link for ya, they arent thathard to do - give it a go

http://drcwww.kub.nl/~bogaard/manual/fronsusp/11.htm

Just because the boots torn doesn't mean the cv's stuffed , especially since you checked them a month ago . They should still have a fair bit of grease in them so get a cv boot kit , the slide over one , not the type with a longitudinal split that you join up (yes , I've seen some and they are shi***se) and some good molybdinum grease . Take the driveshaft out , knock the cv off with a wooden mallet or similar hitting on the back of it , or if the cv comes apart take the cage and balls off the end of the driveshaft and slide the boot over the end , then reassemble the cv . If you take the cv off the shaft be sure to refit it with the spring ring in the slot properly (read up in the manual , the jobs not that dificult) , I had one that was a bit bent and I thought it wouldn't matter, put it back in and halfway up the range to Tenterfield at full noise I lost forward motion , the driveshaft had popped out of the cv on a tight , climbing corner .... You think it's a painful job to do , try it on the side of the Bruxner Highway with limited tools .

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Cooincidently the top picture looks like a steering rack boot, nothing to do with the driveshaft at all. Caution, removing the boot and tie rod to slip the new boot on could stuff up your steering alignment...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

He covers that part 68....I agree with what has been said above....but...fix the Steering Rack Boot ASAP.....you are pumping the oil out and letting crap in which will destroy the rack.

A reconditioned rack might be a good idea

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"Show me the Mini!"

Oh sorry, i thought it was not covered

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yeah it's the steering boot.

Cars off the road, from what I read up on it it's easy to screw up my steering alignment and going in with no exp to fit a steering boot it's probably something i'd end up getting wrong. If it was just the CV boot I'd probably bite the bullet and see how far I got.

Not gunna risk getting stuff wrecked by driving it more even though the weather's been fine so that's 2wks with no car (local mech can't see it till friday week).

The steering rack boot isn't all that difficult , all you need to do is accurately measure from the start of the threaded section (clean it up with a wire brush and find the very start of the thread ) to the face of the tie rod end lock nut , write this down somewhere safe and then undo the lock nut , remove the tierod end and lock nut . Then remove and replace the rack boot (form memory it's possible without lowering the rack) according to the manual and put the tierod end and locknut back on . Make sure you have the same distance between the start of the threaded section and the lock nut and your wheel alignment will be very close , if not exactly the same as it was to start with . It's better to use the very start of the thread than it is to put an ink mark or similar on the steering rod as these can get smudged or wiped off , the thread is a constant . Just make sure you follow the manual for replacing the boot and checking oil level though .

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Yes I would agree that changing the rack boot is easier than the CV boot.

Like sports said - measure the threads on the tie rod. You can also count the number of rotations that the tie rod end takes to unscrew and then replacing it is just the opposite.

Do use a tie rod breaker to split the tie rod end taper from the steering arm on the hub. If your like me, bashing it with a hammer is not an option as i might as well be called lightening. I never hit the same place twice.

If you want step by step instructions send me a PM

Tighten the tie rod end nut first (once you have measured/counted it back in postion)...then the lock nut on the threaded rod.

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"Show me the Mini!"