cheers guys for all your help will post some pictures of the subframes when there all back together again.

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

so approx how much adjustment do you get from hi-lows?

just guessing, like 10-20 cms maybe?

do you use the old ball joint on the bottom of the strut and put it on the hi-los

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

The bit that attaches to the hi-lo is a knuckle joint. While you are there get a NEW one.

You need to take the old nylon cup out of the top arm too while you are there and make sure that it's smooth in there for when you put the new one in, should be a nice slip fit.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

there not to hard to fit are they

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

If you can install the hilo's you can replace the knuckle easily..

Goes in like this:

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

and then the shaft part just attaches to the bottom part of the hi-los

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

yes..you'll see a hole in the bottom of the hilo where it slides in..can't miss it.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

cheers mate

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

i'm about to fit hilo's too but i'm converting it from wet to dry. has anyone got any tips on doing this. i already have rubber cones, dry rear trailing arms and dry front top arms and i'm saving for the hilos now and i just brought sum spax shocks. so when i get them i will put it all in.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

I don't think you had to change to dry trailing arms.. Hydro ones are actually better to use with a dry setup.. I can't remember why exactly, something to do with the dimensions of it or something.. ask doc.

The hole for the knuckle in a wet arm is slightly further out, so you get more spring stiffness.
Doesn't exactly improve the ride though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

is that on the front or them rear arms. i don't care about the ride

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

My recently purchased mini "Camilla" was very low at the front so I knew the cones had sagged and the nylon cups were probably shot. I took the passenger front out today and found this:

The alloy trumpet has corroded all the way through from the inside. The nylon cup was shagged too.


This is the inside. Nasty...


The upper arm has obviously been around a lot. The ball must have worn right through the cup at some stage and has worn a spherical hole in the arm. You can see the end of the old cap where it has molded itself to the sperical shape of the arm, which should be conical like the new cup.
I don't know what to do about this. I reckon a new cup will just split because it won't be supported properly. I'll also need hi-los to compensate for the wear. I'm considering using devcon to re-shape the socket in the arm. Put the mixed-up Devcon into the socket and push the new cup in on top to mould the shape. The surplus devcon will just come out the air hole the underside of the arm. Any thoughts?