One day, I realised i had no brake lights. After checking the wires, and being able to trigger the lights by touching the two wires together (that normally plug into the switch), I went and bought a new switch. Problem fixed.

Now, it's doing exactly the same thing again, less than four months later. There are no problems with the brakes themselves.

The only things I can think of are:
a) thew switch I purchased was a dud, or
b) I installed it, incorrectly...

Is there any special trick I should know about installing the switch? Any ideas?

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

Yeah I think you nailed it.

It could be a dud switch, but also check the connectors themselves. They might be dirty or too loose a fit onto the switch. Follow through and check all the connectors.

If you have a multimeter or a twelve volt test light, try hooking it up accross the switch to test the contact. This should tell you what's wrong..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I bought a new switch (hydraulic type) last year, original had lasted 35 years, this new one lasted 3 weeks...
My mate got one too. His lasted 2 months. So yes, I reckon there was a dud batch made. Take it back...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Probably the same factory those fake "Lucas" type solenoids come out of. MIne lasted a month.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah I got 6 weeks out of a Lucas copy solenoid, made by Echlin. POS.
I put a new Lucas one in, no worries now.
It has to match the Lucas smoke already in the wires...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Lucas ones were bad but lasted 30-40 years the ones we all use now are a jaguar part which explains it all they are shite. Went through 3 on bruizer in 4 months then robbed one from a wreck in a paddock for 20 years and it works like a charm. The new ones are not good.

steve

dam smoke crossalation...
doers anyone else find that the tag for thr headlight circut falls off the old solenoids? (the big brown wire) ive broken 3 of the buggers. the under-bonet-push-button one in the van is great.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Ok, NOW I'm pissed off...

Bought another switch. Installed it. Worked fine.

Less than 24 hours later, it stopped working.

All my other electrics are working fine (tested). The brake lights come on when I touch the wires together. I rang Minicraft here in Perth and they said they've had no problems with these hydraulic brake light switches... But all I can conclude is that the switch is buggered... but AGAIN!?

WTf... Days like these make me wish I drove a REAL car...

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

You can fit the brake pedal stoplight switch off a late Clubby pretty easily.
The existing wires will reach too, if you drill the firewall and put a grommet in.

The other advantage is the brake lights will come on sooner, well before you get hydraulic pressure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Doc. I didnt even know there was a different type of switch.

And to be honest, the brake lights were coming on too late, too. 2 stoned birds...

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

I'm still running a hydraulic one (touch wood!!) but Mr Anglegrinder has now provided a `window of opportunity' in the RH inner guard, so I can swap it in 5 mins.
BMC provided one in the LH inner guard anyway, so no big deal.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc, any more info on the late clubbie type.
I have a 76 clubbie and its got the switch on the subframe (left side) in the brake line, etc..

Cheers,
Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

p/no of late Clubby mechanical brake switch is 13H3735L/2. $8.88 from Karcraft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ha ha! I went to Minicraft again, and got Cono to install YET ANOTHER REPLACEMENT himself. Had a look at it and said: "From what I can tell, it's just the switch. I hope we havent switched back to the old suppliers who made the dodgy ones... If this one doesn't work, I'll just do some modifying and put a mechanical switch in instead."

Well, that was this morning. And it was working when he put it in. I got one 20 minute trip home with brake lights, and that was the end of that switch. No more brake lights.

Damn frustrating. Stupid switch manufacturers... It's called "product and quality testing", people!

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

Once upon a time, all Mini bits came from UK. Now many come from the EU, India and the Far East.
Quality eh... last time I was in China, it was pretty optional on lots of goods....
Hint... NEVER put Chinese made ball bearings in a car.... they usually have endfloat and radial slack when new!!:lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.