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sports850
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:42 pm 
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Mike_Byron wrote:
There is a trick to greasing bearings

Get a dollop of grease - a generous dollop - in the palm of your hand. With the bearing in the other hand hit the bearing into the grease in in your hand while rotating the bearing. Do this until the bearing has an even coating all the way around. Doing it this way drives the grease all the way into the bearing.
Less grease is used and there is less mess too.


I was beginning to think I was the only one doing it this way , people have looked at me strangely but it's the only way to get grease into the bearing fully rather than just smeared on the outside .

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CPOCSM
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:43 pm 
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You are full of suprises arent you. I had a special plastic cup for packing bearings but the Dachshund thought it would be a good chew toy(little shite!!)

I used the old get all the grease out, dip finger in and squeeze it into each and every roller until it was completely smothered. Took ages and had about a third of a packet left over when I was done. I think I have enough in there and heres hoping it is all sealed properly as well(or the first drive will be a short one...lmao)

Hooroo

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:18 pm 
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sports850 wrote:
Mike_Byron wrote:
There is a trick to greasing bearings

Get a dollop of grease - a generous dollop - in the palm of your hand. With the bearing in the other hand hit the bearing into the grease in in your hand while rotating the bearing. Do this until the bearing has an even coating all the way around. Doing it this way drives the grease all the way into the bearing.
Less grease is used and there is less mess too.


I was beginning to think I was the only one doing it this way , people have looked at me strangely but it's the only way to get grease into the bearing fully rather than just smeared on the outside .

Guess what, I've always done Timken bearings this way too. :lol:
Actually, I think this is also the bearing manufacturer's recommendation.

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CPOCSM
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:23 pm 
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Lol - well I guess I will now be going out to do the bearings again...lol

Got the oil heater going out there so its toasty warm.

Hooroo

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9YaTaH
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:26 pm 
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Me Dad taught me that way....and a bunch of his Navy Engine Room Artificer buddies also showed me that way as well....must be something in it :!: :idea: :lol:

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simon k
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:46 am 
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CPOCSM wrote:
Then it dawned on me - I was twiddling with the counter sink screws on the rotor and drive flange and they were loose(I am sure I wanged them up tight with the impact driver!!). It was so simple - the POR paint was preventing the flange from sitting right down on the rotor(the por heats up with friction hence binding to the POR on the rotor...).


that's what I was betting on.... I couldn't see any other cause for it except badly mismatched parts...

same here on greasing the bearings..... I've only ever seen people do it that way. Someone once suggested putting the grease and the bearing in a plastic bag and mushing it in, but I'm not keen on that idea at all.... doesn't seem like you'd be sure it's through all of the rollers

a mate was doing the bearings on his landcruiser a couple of months ago, I picked up one of the bearings and greased it - those bastards take so much grease!!

Sports850 wrote:
Just as an idea , did you buy them as an assembled but used set or in pieces (discs off hubs mainly) , is it possible to check and see if they are a mixture of cooper and cooper s discs if you haven't had this particular set together before ? I can remember hearing something about the parts not being interchangeable (definitely not interchangeable) but could be assembled in some fashion and not possible to work as the spacings were way out . Just something to look at if they were in pieces .


I thought they were the same - anyone know for sure? - I keep my ear to the ground for a set of Cooper uprights to upgrade, but maybe I shouldn't...

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sports850
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:58 am 
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As far as I know it's a bearing thing , being too different to modify but I'm open to anyone with definitive info . I have a set of cooper brakes in pieces so can compare if anyone locally has a cooper S hub etc apart ?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:30 am 
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Cooper, and original Cooper S SWIVEL hubs are exactly the same. :wink:
If you bung the `S' CVs/drive flanges/bearings/rotors in, you then have a Cooper S set.

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sports850
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:33 am 
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Ok , I've got to stop listening to certain people then ..... So does that mean all I'm needing are discs and callipers to make cooper S brakes ? I'm talking about the original , thin 7"(I think) cooper discs (actually have 2 sets I've been holding onto for future projects , rear of the fang being one of them ....) ?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:19 am 
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YES
I did my 1st set this way. :wink:
As I said you will need S rotors, CVs and drive flanges... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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