nar i dont think this thread has gone to crap at all, its just a debate.

put some facts on the table though cos all im hearing is
"no its not!"

and the marina isnt a bad car at all. unimaginative and uninspiring yeah but its a good car.

OMG, I thought the argueing was between Roundies and clubmans. Maybe this is a politically correct proxy clubby Vs Roundie arguement as most clubbies had rod change and Roundies had the remote!




ha ha that's a laugh, history is littered with the relics of great designs dumped for the chance of a better engineered solution! You don't get awards and promotions by leaving things the same when you work for a company, sometimes change is simply for the sake of change and the perception of technological advance. ( AU Falcon anyone? Perhaps a Ford Explorer or an exploding Nova?)

BTW, always hated rod changes for the crap feel and leaks as well as pain in the ass roll pins. Will happily use my remote with a $1.20 top-hat trunnion bush to make it as silent as a library.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

well,,,,isn`t this a wonderfull debate?

I just love it,,, all the banter & battle of what`s better than what in the wonderful world of mini gear change mechanisms, cool,,,

who wants my 2 cents worth then?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

OK, my 2c worth on the Hardy Spicer/pot joint debate, kiddies...

1. I use both. Ha-Ha has H/S joints, Barney runs pots. Both cars have the 4 synchro remote boxes.
2. Hardy Spicers are like any normal car U/J, they wear out the needle joints. Then you need to replace, but the kits are cheap as.
3. Pot joints don't wear out if the boots stay intact and keep the grease in.
4. H/S are used on racers with LSDs because the diff output shafts are thicker. But I have had H/S joints where the drive yoke has spread due to abuse by PO, which then gave me shaft balance problems.
5. H/S drive yokes and flanges are getting scarcer.
6. Pots joints allegedly give less power loss as they are a CV type joint.

You pays your money etc.... these days, I prefer to use pot joints.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Why don't we setup a new , " arguments forum " with perpetual threads like "roundy versus clubby" , "mini versus MINI" , "rod change versus remote" , "CV versus H/S versus rubber uni" , "10" versus 12" versus 13" etc etc etc ..... We're never going to resolve them anyway and it'd make them easy to find .

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I would be interested Matt, go right ahead. Your 2 cents would be worth a look.

Cheers
Aaron

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roundy, mini, rod change, CV, 10"
(or basically willy's car)
end of story

I could imagine it'd be the bigest section of the lot ....

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I'm with Kev, these days only use H/S for originality purposes, for all other uses, pot joints. I use pot joints on my race car with LSD, no probs for over 5 years, no axle breakages, no CV breakages, but do maintain with new grease etc every 1 - 2 years. My car uses all GR current spec stuff btw. Steve

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Steve

How can a gearchange be better when it relies on the exhaust to brace the car?? (Rod change)

I've had to weld my exhaust once and it looks like I need to do it again soon as another hairline stress crack has developed due to the engine leaning on the exhaust rather than a braced arm such as a remote...

Anyway shoosh all I want to hear what Matt has to say...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

New thread....A series VS A+ LOL....Go A-series....no a-series there wouldn't be an A+..btw can't forget that cooper S, the best BL engine ever made (haha i dunno) was A-series...as for clubman vs roundy, i've got a roundy my dad has a clubby. Can't really compare, my car is worth twice his but its 11 years older. roundy looks more 60s obviously and clubby looks 70s. both represent the time there from.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Gotta agree so far as location is concerned....no way am I gunna bolt my rod change to the exhaust....I'll be looking at cobbling up some cotton reels etc to locate it betterer

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"Show me the Mini!"

its old its old its old..

did it never occur to anyone, that not only is the rod change a cheapo cost saving replacement for the remote, but the remote is a cheapo replacement for the pudding stick!!

No other gearbox seems to have spawed such a cool nickname. I throw my rod out to be replaced with pudding

Living proof is far more realiable than historical.

a+ for sure, a more refined engine, well from the experience ive had, flywheel is too heavy though

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Potato

If you are going to modify it though, in the end it won't matter- after you've lightened the rods/wedged the crank/lightened the flywheel and balanced it, an A series will be just as smooth..
I have 1 of each, and at 7000 rpm, BOTH are smooth.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.