Has anyone got a throw-out bearing lying around they could measure for me.
I was cleaning up and found my old one and noticed the outside casing sticks out alot further than the inside. I don't remember the new one having this much difference and if not this could be causing my clutch not to disengage quite enough.

Thanks

_________________

If the outer ring is wider than the inner, that is the later type bearing, p/no 7W5-8. Used on all the diaphragm clutches from ~1965? on.
RHP in UK makes them but so do various other suppliers in EU and Japan. I found the jap ones to be crap ones...

Earlier design flat face one is p/no 3W5-8. Was used on the coil spring clutches. It works on diaphragm ones too. Made by Timken, many people say it is a more reliable bearing.. it costs more, but you get what you pay for I guess.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So do you think one would cause more clutch throw than the other.

My clutch still doesn't disengage enough I feel, I have to be very gentle to get it into reverse without grinding. First isn't easy to select although it doesn't grind.

_________________

If it's all adjusted correctly as per the book, check the diameter of the clutch MC bore. It should be 0.750".Some people have been known to fit Clubby 0.700" brake MCs for a clutch, this does not move enough oil and severely limits clutch travel.


Also, the pedal should go all the way to floor. If not, the slave cylinder piston is hitting the circlip, or the 2 locknuts on the clutch throwout shaft are adjusted wrong.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks I'll measure it.

The pedal goes to the floor and has a new clevis pin. Also replaced the throw-out arm and two clevis pins.

_________________

Measured

How do I measure the bore of the Clutch MC?
Will the outer casing give any indication?
Both MC's look identical to me.

I pulled the rubber dust cover off the slave cyinder and I can see that the piston almost reaches the circlip when I push the clutch to the floor.

_________________

if it's the later alloy housing with BIG plastic lid, the size (0.7 or 0.75) is often marked on the body 1/2 way up.
Failing that you would need to take it off car and measure the piston diameter.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Both MC's have .7" marked on them.

_________________

HELP

Here are the facts:
1st gear is hard to select it doesn't crunch but it takes too much force in my opinion.
Reverse has a slight grind to it when selected.
The piston in the slave cylinder moves about 14mm when pedal is pressed to the floor (is this normal?). I mistaking said the piston almost reaches the circlip but it doesn't come close.
I've replaced clutch pedal clevis pin and the throw-out arm and clevis pins. The old one had been bent, but when I lay it over the new one it would actually give more travel than the new one.
I did the unthinkable and made up an extended push rod for the slave cylinder and it made no difference.

I'm thinking if travel is the problem it's gotta be the MC or Slave C. The clutch MC bore is 0.70" not 0.75"

Failing that it's something internal.

HELP I'M DESPERATE!

_________________

I haven't checked up on this or anything, but the Doc said it so it must be true.

So, you will have to change your clutch master cylinder to a 0.75" one to get the proper travel. when you step on the clutch you are pumping less fluid to the slave cylinder due to the 0.7" bore of your MC. This means that the piston in the slave cylinder isn't travelling as far as it should, making it difficult to operate the clutch.

(you may want to get confirmation on this, i haven't dealt with a problem like this before)

This problem occurs way more often than you would believe. people think a MC is a MC.
I had the problem in the Clubby `GT' I bought.
0.7" is correct for the brakes. I would go buy a 0.75" clutch MC... guarantee it will fix your problem.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Oh good, there's still some hope, just got to find some more money now.

From memory I think it was doing this with the old gearbox but it was pretty worn out anyway so it probably didn't seem as bad.

Thanks Kevin I'll let you know how it goes.

_________________