Lots of folks unhappy with Greenstuffs, see here and check the links- http://www.minimania.com/web/threadid/7 ... thread.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i took my mini for a run in the hills awhile back, and got the brakes very hot, so much that they faded away..

i was rather dissapointed but i havent had any problems since then, infact the brakes seem a lot better under hard use, as the people on the last cruise can confirm.

im running blackstuffs on standard cooper S brakes.

Mine work great, no probs at all.

hmm since changing over from old old stock pads (the best type too: asbestos pads ) to EBC black stuffs i can feel that the pedal feels spongier, like it has air in the system. I have yet to check if it really does have air or not but it did not feel this way before I changed. Couldit be that pushing the calliper pistons in has sucked air into the system? hmmm

BUT it sure does stop heaps better cold or hot. The bite is much much better than the old pads. I can lock it up no problems when stamping on the brakes without a booster. I will check and bleed the system this week and see if that makes a difference. When i pump the pedal it goes harder which seems like a symptom of air...?

Interesting read though, my question is how does he know it's the pads?? as far as I am concerned there could be 101 reasons why his brakes faded, including problems with his master cylinder or brake rotors or his booster?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Look at the photo's of the pads..they are coooked!

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I cooked my Greenstuffs enough to singe/discolour the green paint on the backing plate due to a defective new master cylinder. Once everything cooled down they worked great - and have continued to do so.

Yerars ago I bought some new Kevlar pads (not EBC) for my Volvo. They came with extensive bedding in instructions. Something like stop hard from 80 km/h to walking pace, accelerate to 80 and repeat for 10 stops. Worked a treat.

Sounds like a dud batch to me. AIUI EBC have a pretty good rep with the bike types...

Cheers, Ian

well what other options are readily available?
i really don't want to put standard 40 year old design pads on

Don't know about 'green' but I have the 1144's turbodave is talking about.

I don't have a booster so they are scary to begin with, especially if you are used to modern brakes, they need to be heated up to work acceptibly and I wouldn't recommend them for street use due to this feature.

However they work well on track but can still suffer fade when pushed really hard.

One lap at wakefield I had nothing while braking into the last corner and had to bail.

NB - running a turbocharged car on circuit with stock brake discs etc at standard weight proves they a good enough for the street.

I think a one-off stop from 100mph would be easily dealt with by even standard pads, maybe other things like moisture content of the fluid could be the problem, but more likely they don't look like they have been bed in properly or EBC have quality issues as suggested by other members?

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

It wasn't a one off stop though, he was pushing it for a while before hand i would say..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I thought the MM thread was worth sharing here for comments by you lot.
As I said in the thread I am now onto my 2nd set.

The 1st set still had 3mm of pad left- all paint had been burned off the backplates on Wakefield Pk trackdays- they were now rusty.
They were still stopping OK but brakes were creaking at low speed. New Greenstuffs didn't fix this.
So, I skimmed the rotors, now it's all good.
I reckon if I were to dress the old pads flat and put them back in, they would still stop OK.

I think Greens are tops for general & fast road use and a little track work- they are not sold as a race pad, for that there are others better. Most of which are pretty suss when cold, so do watch them in road use.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

have had my green stuffs in 4 8 years now and just about time for a new set.
no problems with them unless coming down a bigg enough hill that i need ot use them essesivly and then they just feel a little hard but still stop okish, but saying that i have had vented rotors with uprated pads fade quicker than my green stuffs.

I dont have a hassle but maybe i got the last good set 8 years back.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

From my aviation experience with 747 brakes, the friction surface from a high speed or emergency stop should be very shiny and consistently grooved with melted friction materials (both pad and rotor sometimes) around the edges.

The pads still have valleys so the surface wasn't uniform prior and local heat build up on the ridges has led to the fade situation more than the other things, ie not completely bed in properly.

However, giving turbodave the benefit of doubt and reading the ebc news suggests he could be right and it may be the material



or it could be a manufacturing/quality issue



I believe if the pads were ground/milled and installed with conforming rotors that they would most likely be up to spec.

cheers

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I was idly wondering whether it might be a counterfeiting issue. Happens in the avaition industry where someone makes replica bits and then flogs them into the market. There's lots of poor quality Mini stuff coming out of India these days...

Cheers, Ian