I am trying to fit my Pulsar Dizzy. I have followed the docs instructions to the letter. I am happy with the actual conversion and I have it in the car.

I have turned the car over manually so that the valves are closed tight on No1 and No4 as per instructions. At that point the Rotor Arm is pointing at around 2 O'clock and I have made that lead No1 and then gone 3,4,2 in an anticlockwise direction.

I have put the blue lead to the -ve on the Pulsar coil and the B/W one on the +ve. As for the wires that were previously attached to the old Lucas coil I have put the B/W one on the -ve (as before) and the W (I think it is very dirty) on the +ve (as before) the one that was connected to the old dizzy I have removed.

I have tried to start it but it just turns over, with some popping in the exhaust/carb region.

What am I doing wrong??? Any urgent help much appreciated as I would like to have it to drive in the morning.

Cheers

Rick

gday.

ive never done the conversion or read much about it..

but on the old dizzy, the top right is 1, and anti clock wise its 1,3,4,2 ...i think.

so, its not firing in a 4321 order...try changing ur plugs starting where ur 1 is, then anti clock wise 3,4,2

lol i dunno..taking a guess.

_________________
1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

That's what I have done? ? See original post.

lmao sorry dude....miss read it...

_________________
1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

try marking where its set at the moment..maybe in tester or white out....then twist it a lil and turn the key...small turns at a time...try left and then try right..1.5cms either way might be it.

_________________
1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

Timing is retarded if popping, rotate the dizzy body clockwise to advance a bit.
The dizzy drive shaft may need to be turned around 1 tooth if the vacuum can prevents this from happening.
Screw a rocker shaft stud or long bolt (5/16" UNF) into it, and DON'T drop it inside the motor, like a member here did a while back....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There was a guy on another forum that dropped the dizzy drive into the box and he said that he would cut a hole in the gearbox to get it out.
We all said not to but he went ahead and did it. We were pleading with him not to but he worked it out by looking at photos of the inside of gearbox cases that it was possible to cut a hole and remove the drive.
He sealed the hole with a bit of steel plate and silicone. He got the motor running again but then he stopped posting on the forum. I wonder why?

Whats wrong with that?

Ok, tried that but no change, the vac can hit the oil pipe, so on to the next step



I don't understand this bit, do you mean take the dizzy out and stick a bolt in the hole in the block to turn the drive shaft? If so, how and which way? How will I know I have turned it one tooth.

Can you explain this in small words for the hard-of-thinking like me

Ok, I have found an explanation on an earlier post from Nav & Dr Mini and I now understand the process of moving the Dizzy drive shaft.

My question is, can I pull out one of my rocker shaft nuts to use without stuffing up the head (I know you should slacken them off in order) or do I need to go and get myself another stud from somewhere?

Slowly getting clearer, thanks for all of the help so far guys

Rick

Bump.....I hope to get the Mini back on the road tonight after work, so if anyone can answer my last question re the rocker stud I would be grateful

Cheers

Rick

Don't touch the head!! The bolts you are looking for are the side cover (aka tappet cover) bolts on the rear of your engine under the manifolds. If you're careful, you should be able to remove a bolt without removing the cover itself and therefore not disturb the gasket.

[edit] sorry - I didn't realise a rocker stud would work as well - I also didn't remember that later cars don't have tappet covers - all of the above might be useless rubbbish!!

I only know this myself because I removed a rocker cover bolt and stud before someone corrected me. I now know that the thing on the top is the "Rocker Cover" the plates on the side are the "Tappet Covers". I always called the thing on the top a tappet cover too.


The way I got my conversion running:

1. Be sure Cyl #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke
2. Fit distributor
3. Note the direction that the rotor is pointing
4. Turn dist body so that the rotor lines up with a contact in the dist cap - I made a mark on the block to help line this up. (you might need to lift out and re-position the dist body and or dist drive to get this neat to allow future adjustment and clearance of the vac advance etc)
5. refit the leads using the designated contact as number 1 (1342)

Provided you've got the wiring right, it should fire, therefore allowing adjustment for tuning.

It sounds like you've done all this already, I hope this is soome help.

_________________
1958 Morris Minor 1000 - "Nigel"

As the updated heading suggests I screwed it up . I had the bolt screwed in ok and I was putting it back in (the dizzy drive that is) and I dropped it.

I don't have a long magnety thing so I stuck a big magnet on the side of a screwdriver and managed to get it back within reach of my pliers. I stuck the pliers in and it dropped out of sight with a (totally inadequate in view of the severity of the event) thunk.

crap

Now it will be an engine out job. What will I need to buy in preparation. Will I just (hah just) have to get the engine out, separate the sump and fish it out, or will I NEED to rebuild other bits when apart. I can't spend much more than I have to.

Bugger it all. It's a good job I love my Mini!!!

Rick

Bugger! Ive dropped a dome nut down an engine I just finished rebuilding which meant I had to restrip it

Good luck, but I reckon you will have to pull the sump to get it out, but the more experienced should give you a difinative answer

Go to supercheap/autobarn/repco etc and buy a long magnety thing first. They only cost $10 or so and might save you some heartache if it works.....otherwise, yes you will have to pull the engine and split the engine and box. Even at best, you'll be up for a full gasket set and clutch seal.
KB