She's FINISHED!!!

Yay! I am so elated! tired but happy! So excited I could not resist but share the pics

Head

The head was put back together after a good clean. There is some secret things in this head which I don't wish to devulge, but lets just say it is on the opposite end of the scale if we are talking stock head vs fully ported

10th and 11th head stud/bolts were drilled, heater hole was drilled and I painted it during the week. We decided not to run a bypass and instead drill the thermostat which will basically do the same thing. One more thing less to worry about which is good.

Head went on using grease under the nuts and on the head stud threads. I used a Payen BK450 head gasket. I also ran a die and tap onto all the threads of the head bolts and holes just to be 100% sure.

I also dismantled the Toyota-mini rockers that Dr Mini made for me ages ago, out of the current engine in Lillee. This went straight onto the head with no majour issues at all.

Coincidently I put 1.3's back into Lillee and she runs so much better torque wise on the low end. Much more civilised in traffic


Head and Rockers on

Side cover on and Cam timing

I put the side cover on with the seal etc, looks great and thought that was the last thing. But I had actually forgotten the circlip at the end of the mainshaft of the gearbox that holds the pilot bearing in Although there is hardly any chance for it to slip off (if at all) It would keep me up at night worrying about it So i pulled it all apart again and threw the clip on, destroying the brand new gasket in the process

Anyway with those dramas out of the way we out the belt drive plate on with the cogs and put a degree wheel onto the crank.


Degree wheel on crank to time in the cam.

A dial guage was set up to check lift on all 8 valves. Luckily they were all within 1 thou and 1 degree of eachother. The cam needed a 6 degree key to get the timing spot on. Details of this later in a separate update.


Dial Guage to measure lift and get the timing spot on


Almost there!

Finally the timing gear was installed, and the BLING trigger timing cover put on. I spent a good 25-30 mins on the buffing wheel to get it Mirror Bling. GAFMO take note! This ones for you dude!!!


Bling!!!

The the harmonic balancer was put on and TDC was marked on the balancer to the markings on the Trigger belt drive cover. This will make it easy to check timing later on.

That's it!!! It is ready to go on the dyno bar a few things: namely the water pump which I have tapped and put a bolt into the bypass so seal it off, a rocker cover (maybe a new bling one to match the belt drive ), carb and intake which is still on Lillee now and a modified special tuning Pulsar dissy Not to metion a lick of touch up paint before she goes into Lillee.

Once the dyno is done we will then install the flywheel and clutch on and that's it! At this stage, dyno will most likely happen after MDU... no rush really I am stoked, can't wait to see how she goes!!! More updates next week. Have to go back to my day job this week after a week off...

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

looks good now to see how she goes on the dyno.
good luck and let us know.

_________________
www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

Its so shiny. Does it glow in the dark?

Good job.

thats top work mate!

The motor looks so clean and shiny till u look in the wataer gallery where the
water pump goes!!! Ill slap u nextt time if u dont take it to readystrip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

top work and cant wait to see what power it gets!!

Nice work there mate
How about some pics of the port job on the head

Thanks guys. Yes I am worried slightly about the rust. It really only got yellow because we washed the block like half a dozzen times She'll be right...

Port job, top secret! Just don't tell too many people, I want the HP figure to be a complete surprise.... Wooops!!!

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Looks bloody great. I bet you have learned a heap. When can I send you my engine for a rebuild?

Just curious, did you buy a new harmonic balancer? What is GR's policy on replacing them?

_________________
"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

It's second hand. His policy: If racing, buy a new one or a special one, for a road car, so long as the rubber is not hard/cracked/non-existant and the keyway is good then no worries.

Not a huge issue as the crank is balanced properly now, so long as the harmonic balancer is in good order.

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

i place my bet on 110-115 hp on grahams dyno.
any other guestimates

_________________
www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

I bags 118hp

What cam did you go in the end?
Do you mind sending me some pics of the head?

I am quite interested.


Thanks Chong

Hey willy, to tell you the truth I don't think i have any shots of the head actually! good point! I should have for my own records...

Show me a pic of yours, I'll at least tell you if the chambers are the same. Mine is rough though, no polishing. Also it was a metro head which has bigger intake ports, so graham did not need to do much at all to the ports other than cleaning them.

Well it depends Jai... if it's with one of graham's 5.5inch intakes and a set of supa pipes or the like I think it will most likely be in the range of 120-125hp. But on that note, I am definately tuning it in favour of bottom end torque. This "may" even mean going back to 1.3 rockers instead of 1.5's, we shall see on the dyno. You can all have your high HP at subsonic revs... I will stick with 100ft/lbs from 3000rpm + This is a road engine after all.

I've always said all along, if I get 100hp and near 100ft/lb I will be a very happy chappy. Anymore than that is gravy on top and will not sacrifice moving the power up 500rpm for the sake of 5hp at silly revs...

Alot of people are centred on the final HP figure. I think this is driven by the market, as all new cars show max HP and max Torque and foregoing the most important figures such as the torque curve. Graham believes torque curve (ie when on the rev range torque is delivered in copious amounts) is just as important as (of not more important than) max figure for a road engine. This is where the engine will spend 80% of it's life at (if I'm not a total hoon ). Why chase that extra 4hp at the top end for the sake of 20% of the total use? and sacrifice 10ftlbs down low in the process. I am not convinced. Not on a road car...

I am sticking with RE13. Graham and I have talked long and hard about cams. Graham said he's gotten 130hp+ out of RE13 to date so that's not a shabby number. We shall see. Dyno is only the beginning says Graham If the number show the right/wrong combinations we may change things around such as cam, rockers etc.

That's the end of my rant and is my opinion only...

So my bet is 100hp at least but I think Minicranks will be close...

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I cannot wait to get mine together.

I wonder what figures I might be pumping out...

definitely considering GR's 'long' (5.5?") manifold.

what are these super pipes you speak of?

Stay with the Redline manifold Chong, properly ported it's very nearly as good on a road motor as Graham's, and at least you can fit a Ramflo filter on.
I cut a Ramflo sized hole in my firewall, still couldn't fit ANY filter to the GR one because of the centre speedo... so the GR came out and got sold.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No No I will stick with redline. It will also have "Secret" experimental work done to it. May involve welding Can't say any more

Supa Pipes willy!!! from GR's 3rd article on TME! don;t tell me you haven't read that!!! They are BLING! Ceramic coated and all... hot! at a hot price too

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K