I'm currently situated in Perth and recently purchase a mini over in Geelong. To be honest it was a bummer to do business with the bloke. What i got wasnt wat we agreed on before the purchase. Parts was missing, paint job so called "PROFESSIONALLY" done turn out to be some dodgy home done paint job full with fillers on the body to hide away the dents. Well any I'm trying to get it license over here but the compliance plate is missing. Contact seller but wasnt helpful at all. Could anyone give me some advice on a replacement compliance plate. How can i find out the missing details as in the chassis no., engine no. etc..

Cheers,

Mini Cooper Mania

The 78 clubby I just bought also has no compliance plate, I asked about it when I was at the mechanics yesterday trying to get the twin SU's tuned (damn manifold gasket wasn't put on right and has to be replaced Anyway the body number is stamped on the body near the radiator and the engine number is on the block, the mechanic said not to worry, just bring along a copy of the old rego papers when I bring it to him for a blueslip.

If the engine bay has been painted you will need to take to the top of the radiator sgroud with some sand papaer to find it then rub it with chalk and hope the number matches that on the paperwork, if not rub harder and restamp it to match.

i don't know if this applies to all minis - (i'm guessing it might), but i had the same problem of missing compliance plate on my cooper s. anyway mines a very early mk2 and i've found a couple of different info sources to confirm that mk1's (up to early 69) had an english compliance plate fixed to the firewall. mk2's changed to australian but the compliance plates weren't ready or something like that so early ones don't have one, as the others have said you just have to go by the body number stamped in the radiator surround and the engine number

Geoff

Early cars up to `68?had a BMC Zetland plate on the firewall with `car number' and the same number is stamped into the firewall in BIG numbers behind the clutch MC.
There is also a number on the rad shroud but on early cars it doesn't match the one on the plate.
But, on Clubbies I've seen, this one is the body number.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Places to look:
Cars built up to end of 68:
Should have an ID plate riveted to the firewall behind the master cylinders. The CAR number should also be stamped on the firewall below the ID plate. The ID plate will show engine No and car colour as well.
On the top of the radiator surround panel (between rad and LH inner guard) there should be stamped a BODY number and a production code.

Cars built from beginning of 69 to later part of 69 generally don't have ID plates at all. Car and body numbers and model and production codes may be found on the radiator surround panel or sometimes??? on the rear bonnet opening panel (bit the rubber seal sits in). Don't know exactly where but was told about this so may not be 100% correct. Also may be stamped on bulkhead behind master cylinders???? Look anyway.

Cars built from end of 69 should have ADR compliance plates plus info on rad surround panel. On round nose cars ADR plate can be on RH side (drivers side) of bulkhead box section next to RH inner guard.
Clubman cars have an ADR plate attached to the top of the RH inner guard, a production code on the bulkhead behind the clutch master cylinder and the model ID code etc on the rad surround panel.

Engine number should be stamped on the block top surface immediately behind the Gen/Alternator. If the block has been surfaced the number may have been completely machined off. You may be lucky and find a stamped metal tag as English engines had the engine number stamped on a metal tag riveted to the block. Not allowed in OZ. Too easy to carry out fraudulent activities. Engine number must be stamped on block.

Don't confuse CAR number and BODY numbers. Body numbers start from 0001, CAR numbers start from 501. Just another one of those BMC mysteries.

Lots of luck
RonR

I put this in the wrong thread a few hours ago. I shouldn't do things without glasses! I am building a brand new van and it has NO numbers or plates on it as it never got that far down the production line. I rang th RTA in NSW and asked them what would happen at rego time and was told they would assign all numbers necessary. Try ringing your rego authorities and explaining the problem. They are usually understanding with older cars.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Somewhere on the VicRoads website it says that a car can still be registered if the complance polate is missing, as long as the chassis number can be identified and the car has previous registration history in Australia.

Cheers.

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Not all compliance plates were punched right, either- my `70 Minimatic says YA2S5 on the VIN plate and YMA2S5 on the rad shroud..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

From memory we used to make the compliance plates at JRA if needed. If the car came from Enfield without one or got to a dealer without one it was made at Liverpool. something like that as the years have dimmed the memory. I can recall having to order them as I worked in vehicle distribution when we were running out the last of the mokes. I can also recall something of this nature when ADR plates first came in and I was working at Larke Hoskins. That some of them were wrong does not surprise me.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Thanks heaps!!!