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 Post subject: Smiths Temp Gauge
PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:26 pm 
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Would this gauge be more accurate than the standard clubby gauge? Would it be preferrable to have a gauge that has the actual numbers written on the face rather than just a hot, warm or cold section? I have a 1300 in my leyland and the standard needle seems to be moving more that I would like.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:18 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
None of them are accurate as they don't have temp readings on the face, so therefore can't be calibrated accurately. They are only a guide.

They are however supposed to be matched to a correct sender to suit the gauge. Once you have the gauge and sender, you can immerse the sender in hot water from the stove and compare the gauge result with the temperature of the water measured with a thermometer. This gives you that war and fuzzy that the gauge works and that you can believe the reading.

You can take the water to the car and drop the sender into the water making sure to connect the sender to ground as well.

You tend to just get used to a particular gauge when they are ungraduated.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:43 am 
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Another way to do this is warm the motor up with the rad cap off and a thermometer sitting in the top tank. 8)
Or, some multimeters sold now have a digital temp probe. I borrowed Gafmo's.
I was most surprised when I tested Barney's C-H (Mini K) temp gauge. The start of the `H' was only 74C, with correct sender and +10V from the electronic V stabiliser.. :lol:
Maybe somebody has fiddled the calibration inside the gauge- no matter, at least I know now he's NOT overheating!.

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 Post subject: Re: Smiths Temp Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:52 am 
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awbeattie381 wrote:
Would this gauge be more accurate than the standard clubby gauge? Would it be preferrable to have a gauge that has the actual numbers written on the face rather than just a hot, warm or cold section? I have a 1300 in my leyland and the standard needle seems to be moving more that I would like.


as others have said...all guages are only an indication and greatly depend on where their sensors are installed. Temperature in the head is most critical I suppose because if it overheats you can crack it or blow a head gasket.

So generally its a matter of personal taste...graduations or indication bands...the main thing is to make sure that after observing a range of driving conditions (including stuck in traffic) you check that your cooling system is copeing and you remember the range of indications you saw on the guage....anything out of the ordinary??? switch off and investigate (quick!)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 6:02 pm 
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thanks lads.

What is the correct temp in Deg C for normal operating temps? What is the danger level?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:34 pm 
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Location: Inner West, Sydney
one last question.

How much would you expect to pay for a half decent temp guage? I cant find any online...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:14 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Thermostats open at 82 degrees usually, and water boils at 100 degrees (a little more when under pressure and with ainti-boil additive) so anywhere in between there I suppose.

You can get a simple graduated capillary temperature gauge from Supercheap complete with oil pressure and Ammeter for less than 40 bucks with mount. They seem to be pretty good in my experience, and they aren't electrical being a capillary type. All you need is to hook up the lamp for night driving(included).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 7:33 am 
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There are 3 common Mini thermostats- 74C, 82C, and 88C.

I use the 74C one, but if you expect the heater to warm you in winter, go the 82C.
88C is good in UK but too hot for Oz cars, IMO.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:26 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Thermostats open at 82 degrees usually, and water boils at 100 degrees (a little more when under pressure and with ainti-boil additive) so anywhere in between there I suppose.

You can get a simple graduated capillary temperature gauge from Supercheap complete with oil pressure and Ammeter for less than 40 bucks with mount. They seem to be pretty good in my experience, and they aren't electrical being a capillary type. All you need is to hook up the lamp for night driving(included).


what would be the mst accurate? electrical or capillary?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:45 pm 
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Allegedly, capillary are more accurate, but that's not necessarily so for the cheapies.
Capillary are more fragile, you need to watch where the line goes and keep clear from everything.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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