GT one should be same as a Cooper S.
Mine was.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

To others who dont have originality concerns, all the arguements about which is the best radiator and should you use a cheap pommie import or get yours reco'ed here - dont lose sight of something important.

The mini only just has enough coolant circulating to do the job in Australian conditions. A partially blocked radiator adds to other problems later. The cooling system needs a full flowing radiator and electric fans are a boon if the system is working properly in the first place. But they are not a band-aid for a blocked radiator.

If you have over heating problems - address the problem promptly. Its mostly lack of circulating coolant.

My GT came with its original radiator. When I drained it, the water looked like Fanta! It had been sitting for over 20 years full of water.

You reckon it needs a recore?

Who has had one done and what is it worth (on average) ?

Anton
Have a good look at your radiator, you may just find that its one of (or at least similar to) the larger one supplied on 1100s's, 1275 mokes and the like. It was also marketed as a "tropical" radiator.

lt will be noticably larger than a normal mini radiator if is is a "tropical'.

The last quote I had to get a radiator reco'ed was about $200 although Simon from Albury (ssnsgn) told me has a contact who will take the tanks off, put a rod down the tubes and resolder the tanks for less than a $100. I have heard several other trade prices from other in Sydney as well.

I seriously doubt if it needs recoring - take it to a radiator place and they'll take the bottom and top tanks off, clean them the tubes out and put it back together - there won't be any problems with it.... IMHO recoring is only needed when the core has been damaged and holes put in the main tubes.... even bent fins can be straightened. I have 7 nice radiators on my shelf that all only need cleaning

I had an alligator clip flick off my coil and into the fan when I was using my mates engine analyser, the alligator clip exploded and part of it speared right into the corner of one of the main tubes and punctured it... my radiator bloke fixed it for me, and my car still only ever gets to 1/3 on the gauge in traffic on the hottest days

the KEY to a cool running mini is getting the fan as close as possible to the radiator - anything else is unnecessary.... remember, they ran at Bathurst with standard cooling systems

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

i got my 1275LS factoiry radiator re cored and it cost me too muc.. it needed lots of work, but i said i wanted to ujse that and nothing else so it came up looking good i guess and its all ridgy didege, cos we all know how muc i love an original clubby limited edition

remember Anton, radiators don't rust... the rust in the water comes from the block, and the fact that it's been full for 20 years is a very good sign

Mike is correct - my radiator bloke does the strip and clean for $55... one time I went too early to pick one up and he sent me away cos he hadn't painted it yet he fixed my puncture for nix, but that was special cos the owner of the analyser puts a lot of business through him

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Anton if it still had `water' in it may just need a flush.
The worst ones to clean are the dry ones, because the muck jams in the tubes.

Take it out back and stick a hose up it both ways, before you spend $$$.
Hose until it runs clear.
If OK, then spray with black `reconditioning' enamel..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Got my local radiator guy to top and tail the radiator, with the tanks off, he gave me a call and showed me that about 1/3 of the cores were blocked solid, harder than concrete. (bloody PO)

He recored it for me for $208.00 with a 2 year gaurantee, using the original tanks. At the same time he put a drain plug into the bottom tank, and a 1/2" outlet in the top tank under the filler neck to allow me to circulate coolant from the heater take-off, or fit an auxilliary radiator.

The tanks are now silver soldered on and are bloody solid, with a good aussie made "3-core" core, it does a fantastic job!

WAY better than a new radiator, the pomgolia ones are cheap rubbish, cores are poor quality and tanks held on practically with flour and water.

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

radiator stopleak.... yeah.... good stuff

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

roaring down conrod taking the the hot exhaust from another two mini's 10 cm infront of you: )

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hmmm...interesting discussion. Thanks all for the tips.

I'll give it a hose. If it seems blocked I will get it 'rodded'



I love that!

They are however identical to the Deluxe cores as well aren't they? No differences?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

i am using a 4 core minispares one and all i had to do was file the holes on the lower upright mount between the rad shroud and the lower bkt the mount bolts to, this brought the rad in a good 5mm or so and it clears the body shroud and keeps the 180bhp a series cool all day long

it would be great if it had the drain in the lower tank though

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Oz Deluxe and Cooper S core are the same. 16 fins/inch.
The 850 was different (12 fins/inch)- like most UK rads.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.