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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:17 pm 
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Location: NSW
hi guys can you please help me if you have any tips of ideas to help make my life easy? i have no idea but i just bought a brand new bypass hose and i am about to try and change it!
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

im taking the radiator out first and then well should i first, i dunno, but i have time off so i going to give it a try

Any help would be appreciated! thanks guys

1 sad :cry: :cry: CL88MN :cry: :cry:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:47 pm 
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other than taking the head thats going to be a real pain :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:02 pm 
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ok thanks what tension do i have to do the head back up at, does anyone know and has anyone done this,
i bought the KEVLAR wont burst bypass hose from minisport1275 so i hope it works! :oops:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:55 pm 
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I'd leave the head on, taking the water pump out instead is way less drama.
Remove radiator first... :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:47 am 
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thanks very much drmini, im attempting now! cheers

i hope i dont get to many suprises
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:40 am 
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if ur gunna be up for a waterpump gasket anyway, if it wer me, id be wacking on a new water pump.... there only under $40 and u could prolly flog the old one on ebay!

its cheap insurance if it does any kinda kms

-Cam

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:22 am 
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crap HEY, i dont have time for that, ive got the rad out and everything is going according to plan, Mulisha your gear nob is coming and yeah the bypass hose is stuffed,! anyway pictures soon so you can all laugh!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:24 am 
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If you've got the head off why not simply block the bypass hose ports and you won't have any more problems.

Simply carefully cut a thread into both the head and the housing and seal a bolt into there.

We have done this on many motors and they still run at normal temperature without any problem. The majority of minis have this pipe all clagged up with gunk so the bypass hose doesn't actually do anything anyway.

Just a thought

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:26 am 
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Mister White Keys wrote:
If you've got the head off why not simply block the bypass hose ports and you won't have any more problems.

Simply carefully cut a thread into both the head and the housing and seal a bolt into there.

We have done this on many motors and they still run at normal temperature without any problem. The majority of minis have this pipe all clagged up with gunk so the bypass hose doesn't actually do anything anyway.

Just a thought


That's what I normally do but don't forget to drill a couple of small holes in the thermostat so the water can still circulat slowly like it does through the bypass hose .

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:27 am 
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really wow, what is it there for then? i just bought a kevlar one so it doesnt burst, what a joke did i get ripped or what?

thanks guys

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:29 am 
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how do i do this do you guys have any pics im loading all mine tonight!
goinng back to it now its all out, KINDA :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:46 am 
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basically as Mister White Keys said , you've got to cut a thread into the head and water pump where the hose goes . Can't remember off hand but the last one I think I cut the little neck off the underside of the head that the hose fits onto flush to the cast iron rather than took it out . Cut a thread into the head and put a short bolt into the threaded hole , make sure the bolt isn't too long or fouls the thermostat or any part of the heads casting before it's done up tight . Once you know it's right give it a good coat of a good gasket goo or similar sealer to help stop any water leaks (I used to use gasket goo but there's probably better products around now) and do it up tight . The same for the water pump though be careful as it's an alloy housing and won't be as strong as the head . Also make sure your bolt doesn't go anywhere near the pumps impeller or it's stuffed .

The bypass hose basically allows a little water to bypass the thermostat when the motors cold and the thermostats open . If you block the bypass and don't drill some holes in the thermostat the water will have nowhere to go and will build pressure on the water pump and hoses .

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:21 pm 
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The only problem is finding the right size hole in the thermostat in order to allow the engine to warm up in a reasonable amount of time.

too many holes and it takes forever to warm to normal operating temp, and too little and the pressure builds.

I can't off the top of my head remember what size the holes in mine are but there is about two or three around the edge of the thermostat.

Instead of gasket goo there is also a silastic gasket silicon that will work just fine.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:46 pm 
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I normally use 2 holes , 1/4" diameter and it wwarms up similar to a standard setup , maybe a touch cooler temp though .

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:56 am 
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well now the cars off the road cause i ripped the radiaator, water pump, thermostat, and now i have changed the bypass hose, and i cant get the bloody radiator back in,

i left it in the bracket to get it out but i cant seem to be abl to tighten the back screw that mounts the radiator, i thought i was doing so well, now she is in the shed, with a sledge hammer beside her :evil:

i love minis ust not the mechanics of them, i wanna win the lotto, and pay everyone to PIMP MY RIDES!

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