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I think you find that as soon as anybody starts to measure up your bores etc for wear they will find that the bores have worn tapered and you have ridges at the top of the bores.
Just putting rings on the pistons probably will not work and it will need a rebore. These days there are heaps of pistons with rings available and they are about the same price as buying a set of rings. A rebore and and a good rebuild is good for easily 100,000 ks and much more dependant on maintainance, style of driving etc. The 1275 motor can be bored a few times before the block is a throw away. Just simply reboring does not shorten the life of the block
I have enclosed an email text from engine builder Colin Dodds on what is needed and a guide to costs. Good Luck
And g'day Mike Byron - how could I ever forget you!
I joined this group to assist where I could, and not to tout for business. There are a number of competent mechanics and engine rebuilders out there who deserve your business. (Of course, I think we fall into that category too.) But equally there are a number of inexperienced people who will, if you ask them, be only too happy to work on your car. You shouldn't be paying for their learning time and for their mistakes.
A few people have asked for indicative costs for the engine rebuild items I listed. OK, prices follow. Please note that on purpose I have looked up no price list for this. Why not? Because this is an indication, not a quote. The prices are from memory, but they will be close enough for you to judge whether you are getting good value for money from your chosen rebuilder.
Please note also that cheap isn't necessarily good. Our basic engine rebuilds average around $2,000. A performance engine can easily be double that. I am currently building a 1030cc short stroke Formula Junior engine, with a budget of $12,000. But if cheap is all you can afford, I can refer you to 2 places where you can get a fully rebuilt engine for $1200. I know this because we have re-rebuilt 4 of their engines over the last 18 months.
You get what you pay for. Just make sure you do get what you have paid for.
$180 remove oil gallery, welsch plugs and cam bearings, and chemically clean bare head and block
$60 new oil pump
$70 new water pump - high volume
$12 new timing chain
$32 new (not reground) cam followers
$60 new oil gallery, welsch plugs and cam bearings
$50 hone bore
$90 to $160 for new rings, depending on brand and size
$50 linish crank
$70 new big and and main bearings
$240 service head (new guides etc)
$50 mill head face (in our experience, approx 50% are no longer flat)
$60 mill block face (ditto, 20% not flat)
$90 dynamic balance crank, front pulley and clutch assembly
$60 to $80 static balance pistons and rods
$80 quality gasket set (eg: Metro Turbo head gasket)
Other MUST DO items will depend on the engine, such as:
$120 re-bore
$300 to $400 for oversize pistons depending on size
$35 to remove and replace 998cc or 1098cc pistons
$100 to remove and replace 1275cc pistons
$160 re-grind crankshaft
$80 new timing gears
$150 regrind camshaft
Optional items for more power and reliability are:
$800 to $1000 for cylinder head mods
$0 for performance cam grind - same price as standard cam grind
$100 extra for high compression pistons
$300 lighten and polish rods
$200 new ARP rod bolts
$200 new ARP head stud kit
$750 roller rockers
$250 performance exhaust system
$600 for fully serviced twin 1.25" SUs with new heat shield on manifold
$900 for new 1.5" SUs with heat shield on manifold
$750 for fully serviced 45 DCOE Weber on good new manifold
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