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 Post subject: suspension???
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:45 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:16 pm
Posts: 714
Location: Gold Coast
wanna upgrade my suspension i got wet setup dont wanna change to dry but can you get diff shocks or whats the go!!! need to be floating on air again :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 6:01 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:41 pm
Posts: 4319
Location: Plumpton, NSW
One mod I did on mine (thanks to advice from the Doc) was to fit the front shock absorbers from a dry clubbie.

You just need to go to a wreckers and grab the shocks, the mounting frames and bolts. From memory, I think I needed to buy some new high tensile bolts to replace some - try a search or ask the Doc. You don't need particularly stiff shocks, the std ones in good condition will do - it stops it lurching and pitching as much.

The second part (which I haven't done yet) is to fit competition bump stops to the rear.
If you're going all out, a set of front and rear adj suspension (camber/caster for the front, camber for the rear) is the shot.

Depending on where you are located, as to who is the best person to talk to.
KB


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:56 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
I have this setup and I can say without a doubt that my tyres are the weakest link at the moment and I run brand new Yoko A008's.

My advice is, save your money, get the hyrdo pumped up, do the front shock mods (about $100 to $150) and competition bump stops ($70), align your rear properly (either adjustable brackets or weld and drill like I did, and get the front straight and balanced with new rubbers and bushes all round and you will have a very very good setup.

I will be running my 120hp engine on this hydro setup without hesitation. For the road it's very good.

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Last edited by Lillee on Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:34 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:16 pm
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Location: Gold Coast
just got new bushes and rubbers and the hydro is pumped up will look into the shockies and the comp stops thanks guys and thing else i got yokos to on my 12s

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:43 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Yeah go back to 10's and you will notice immediate handling improvements :wink:

I will eventually get a totally adjustable front end for castor and negative camber. Just make small adjustments at a time, don't go whole setup in one go, you won't know what is what and you won't realise what change has made what difference to handling and you won't know how to diagnose a handling problem.

Setup as I said above and get everything aligned, straight and balanced. That's a good start. My car crabbed badly before I fixed it, the handling has improved 10 fold. You will be amazed at what a difference 1/8" makes to mini handling! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:18 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:16 pm
Posts: 714
Location: Gold Coast
thanks for the advice will have a chat to my mechanic this week see what he can do for me, thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:03 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
No worries. Speak to your wheel aligner! call around and ask if they have an old setup that can do 10 inch wheels. Get them to give you

Front castor, camber, toe in. Set the toe in to 1/8" toe out
Rear camber and toe in.
Get them to measure the rear trailing arm axles relative to the front wheels if they can (most cannot) or at a minimum get them to measure the rear axles relative to the body where the rear dubframes are mounted to the body.

Bet you a beer it's crabbing! :lol:

Go from there once you know the measurements

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