Recently found out my alternator was cactus, after my "mechanic" ( I wont mention names but theyre a reputable Syndey based outfit) decided to overtighted it and screw the bearings, etc.

So picked up a working one, that looked like it was out of a mini (as opposed to my one which I think was out of an Escort) and threw it in.

Everything worked well for about a day or two, and then she wont kick over. I've also found that the interior light near the fuel guage is always on.

My old alternator had 2 wires and I just plugged these two in. The belt is a little loose but it does turn the alternator, and I've tightened it now.

If it makes a difference its a 762 clubbie and the battery is the second one I've put in, and it was new so I dont think its a battery issue.

Any suggestions???

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1972 Clubman needs full resto
Coming soon: www.pimpthemini.com

Hi, i think you have something draining the battery providing the charge rate is ok.
what is the charge rate

What do you mean by charge rate?

_________________
1972 Clubman needs full resto
Coming soon: www.pimpthemini.com

The_Dog...
You have an earth leak somwhere, do you have an imobiliser or alarm? tracing the leak will be very dificult, but noraly for a leak it is a fried imobiliser capacitor. If you don't have either, then have a look at your sterio setup , if you have an amp setup, and crossovers, you may have a leak there draining your battery. failing that, its a matter of tracing your fault through your wiring, you could end up checcking everything then to find it might be something as simple as your cabin light shorting and causing a leak... Hmmmm, tough one.

Charge rate;..... do you have a multi meter?
If so, comnect your multi meter to the batery before you start, check the volts, remover the multimeter, start your mini, and reconnect. That will give you your charge rate. My MX3 is at about 13.8v from memory. this tells you that your alternator is pumping charge back to your battery.

the alternator is charging the vehicle whilst driving but when the vehicle sits the battery
is going flat from a stereo/alarm/interior light. disconnect the negative terminal put
the multimeter to amps, connect one lead to the battery and one to the lead and the reading should be nothing. if your not sure on the reading open a door and see the current reading on the meter, then shut it and recheck.

I dont have a stereo or immobiliser, and about the only accessory I have is a cabin light, (which doesnt work mind you).

I did create a short when I tried to wire up a stereo but i removed these cables, I think I might be off to the autoelectrician tomorrow.

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1972 Clubman needs full resto
Coming soon: www.pimpthemini.com

i'm an auto elec, sometimes it's hard to diagnose without testing the car.

Hmmm, the light near your fuel gauge is your ignition light. there seems to be a problem with your ignition if that light won't go off. That is most definately causing you to lose charge very quickly. I'm no autoelec, but I do know that if your ignition light is always on, your passing charge through to your coil, NOT GOOD. You can cook the coil if this is left unfixed. A quick check will be to touch the coil and see if it warm when you say the ignition light is on.

wasnotme... if you are an Autoelectrician, maybe you could give more precise fault diagnostics to help out Thedog74... if you have time that is. Maybe run through the scenario of where you start and your thoughts of where to trace the fault..
Cheers mate

The light was not on when the old alternator was on the car. It only came up when the new alternator was plugged in. I'm pretty sure the new alternator is off a round nose if that makes a difference.

I tested the charge rate and its nil, ie: I dont think I'm getting charge from the alternator back to the battery. I'll start it in the morning with one of those jumpers and see whats coming off the alternator.

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1972 Clubman needs full resto
Coming soon: www.pimpthemini.com

It sounds like you have repaired your Alternator fault by another one that is crook. The light on the dash staying on when all is turned of is telling me that your Alternator has blown Diodes and is leaking back when the key is in the off position which will definately flatten your battery overnight. You need to throw that alternator away too and get one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... &rd=1&rd=1

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Mate I reckon I know your problem, If it isn't a mini one (I probably is but just incase) as I use a non-mini alternator. You see the alternator may have an 'excite line' which is permanent 12v, which helps the alternator charge at the correct rate(withou this it may charge up to 17v ). The lucas one gets this through the alternator light but many other alternators work different. If you don't connect the 'excite line' through igntion but through battery the alternator is kept magnestised when the car is off (there's a word for it, but I can't remeber as that was last semester's physics! ). And you are continually loses 12v. Which will drain your battery. At the moment my alternator light doesn't work with the alternator I have now. I know why though but it's a bit more comlicated so I won't confuse you anymore (uses an LED and a resistor). I hope this helps, check that all lines heading to the alternator on from +ve do actually come from igntion power, NOT battery. But by all means see an auto electrician an learn about it all.

[EDIT] I just re-read your posts, you, most likely have a Lucas Mini one I reckon so what I said above doesn't apply to you, but I will leave it there for other people to read.

What is the number on it? What brand? Etc...

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T