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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:53 pm 
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1360cc
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i think i paid $20 for a needle, if you need the seat also its a few bucks, can do it yourself, if you are not confident you can bring it to me or any one else willing to help


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:06 pm 
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Spaceboy wrote:
i think i paid $20 for a needle, if you need the seat also its a few bucks, can do it yourself, if you are not confident you can bring it to me or any one else willing to help


yeah i prolly wouldnt have a problem putting the needle in... but knowin which one is a different story... hence the thread.. :(


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:16 pm 
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1360cc
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Spaceboy wrote:
single hs4 carb =
std 998 normal mix = red spring, AC needle
std 998 rich mix = red spring, M1 needle


from "how to modify your mini"


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:17 pm 
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Spaceboy wrote:
Spaceboy wrote:
single hs4 carb =
std 998 normal mix = red spring, AC needle
std 998 rich mix = red spring, M1 needle


from "how to modify your mini"


ahh ok.. well personally id preffer the most economical car i can.. so id be wanting the AC needle... but can i do that ? or is there something i should know


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:48 pm 
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998cc
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if you have a LCB an RC40 fitted i don't think that the standart needle will be any good

with the factory air filter box i would start with a AAU (springloaded, don't know fixed needles)
with open element filter, like K&N cone, i would try AAB

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:06 am 
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KLAS wrote:
if you have a LCB an RC40 fitted i don't think that the standart needle will be any good

with the factory air filter box i would start with a AAU (springloaded, don't know fixed needles)
with open element filter, like K&N cone, i would try AAB


ill prolly end up with (i forget the name of them) the silver backing plates with the foam in the middle and the metal mesh cover held on with a metal strap... sporty looking filters...


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:25 am 
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1360cc
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i would guess you need to run a slightly richer needle because of the extractors and exhaust.
if your car is tuned correctly it shouldnt use more fuel.

you're thinking ramflo, which i dont think are any good, i would go the standard box (cheaper and cheaper replacement, less noise, better filtering), but please yourself.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 7:00 am 
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You've said you've never had this problem before.....but haven't said what the problem is...(unless I missed it - entirely possible)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:30 am 
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smac wrote:
You've said you've never had this problem before.....but haven't said what the problem is...(unless I missed it - entirely possible)


never had the acceleration problem before.. even when ive switched SU's before...accept on the same car before i switched the engines....


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:35 am 
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is it $200 for just a carby tune? or tappets, timing etc aswell? if its everything $200 isnt that bad, get your car running alot nicer and reduce premature wear on the engine if you get it running right.
i've never used those ram flow filters but my mate had them on his e49 r/t charger and they wher pretty crap.
i've got a k&n filter on my A+ but even the standard filter works well. really well actually. just drill lots of holes around the filter casing for better breathing

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:36 am 
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1970 mini K wrote:
is it $200 for just a carby tune? or tappets, timing etc aswell? if its everything $200 isnt that bad, get your car running alot nicer and reduce premature wear on the engine if you get it running right.
i've never used those ram flow filters but my mate had them on his e49 r/t charger and they wher pretty crap.
i've got a k&n filter on my A+ but even the standard filter works well. really well actually. just drill lots of holes around the filter casing for better breathing


its for dwell, tapetts, carby tune. ect... dunno if timing was including but its been done anywho...


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:16 pm 
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1275cc
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at morris maina i payed $140 ish for a tune timing and new plugs and so on he can tune pretty well but if u want make performance and less fuel wastige u need a dyno tune but that would be way out off the price range.
all that type off thing it depends on the carby too cause
i been stuffin around wid a few and if it is the carby wid a spring needle then u need to change it over if u want to muck around wid needles and so on in my 1100 i run a no.7 or the other one i cant remeber wat it is E3 it is think its a matter of takin it to a place
if u dont know wat u doin so its better to get it done right rather then tryin it urself and running it lean and blowin a newish mota :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:21 pm 
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ss wanab wrote:
at morris maina i payed $140 ish for a tune timing and new plugs and so on he can tune pretty well but if u want make performance and less fuel wastige u need a dyno tune but that would be way out off the price range.
all that type off thing it depends on the carby too cause
i been stuffin around wid a few and if it is the carby wid a spring needle then u need to change it over if u want to muck around wid needles and so on in my 1100 i run a no.7 or the other one i cant remeber wat it is E3 it is think its a matter of takin it to a place
if u dont know wat u doin so its better to get it done right rather then tryin it urself and running it lean and blowin a newish mota :wink:


so $140 included tuning the carby.. which would have to include the needle ?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:25 pm 
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well i said 140 ish and that would if u tell him to check the needle then best suit it to wat u need he can only tune to wat he can widout a dyno but still wid out a dyno hes a real good tuner i wont go to anyone else ive found him to be the best next to actually payin for a dyno run

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:29 pm 
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no worries... well thats on hold till i can get some cash...


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