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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 5:53 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Manly West, Brisbane, Qld
:oops: Guys...... just about every time i drive Slidey when i double clutch back to second i always seem to clip the box, grrrrrrrrrriiinnnddddd!!!!!. I have only successfully downshifted probably 10 times since getting the car without grinding.

I have spoken to Greg (Low 'n' Blown) about this problem many times since receiving Slidey........ It's a MK1 box that has been fully rebuilt, obviously no synchro on 1st.. Greg mentioned about the tolerances within the box itself..... can anyone elaborate on possible remedies/clues as to what is going on??????.

Obviously i don't want to persist in catching the box because it will be f%^ked in no time.........

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:07 pm 
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Could be a bunch of things- a dragging clutch, weak synchro hub springs, baulk ring lugs catching in the hub, worn baulk ring, etc. Is it hard to get it into gear, or it just grates with little effort applied?

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 Post subject: Sg
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:19 pm 
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When you say double clutch back to second are you psuedo double clutching (i.e not releasing the clutch as the stick passes through neutral) or are you depressing clutch pulling stick out of 3rd into neautral, lifting foot off clutch, revving engine with side of foot depressing clutch and as revs rise press stick into second?

For me it's must of a technique for all mini drivers. If it's still grinding when you are doing this.refer to Dr MIni. BTW even with my recently rebuilt box it will grind into second if I do not double clutch down.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:38 pm 
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Oz, was doing the double clutch correctly as you mentioned..... doc yes it is hard to get into gear. I thought about the clutch dragging, i might adjust it firstly to see if that aids or hinders the process.

Cheers

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:47 pm 
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If you are having persistent trouble getting the clutch to throw out far enough, with the clutch arm gap at 0.020", double check the clutch MC's bore. Should be 0.750".
Brake ones (0.7") do (just) work but don't move enough oil.... causing clutch drag. :x

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: d
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:52 pm 
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Does it go in without trouble from 1st to 2nd?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:53 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
If you are having persistent trouble getting the clutch to throw out far enough, with the clutch arm gap at 0.020", double check the clutch MC's bore. Should be 0.750".
Brake ones (0.7") do (just) work but don't move enough oil.... causing clutch drag. :x


Doc with the clutch arm gap.... i was reading my manual and it said the arm gap is factory set to 0.060".... are you saying to decrease the arm gap to see if that helps????. And if that gap is not correctly set will that cause the clutch to not engage correctly, obviously catching the shift then????

Sorry Doc... these are prob newbie questions again :oops: :oops: :oops:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 7:19 pm 
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try revving the car higher before putting it in to second.
my second synchro is stuffed so i am getting pretty good at double clutching.
ur prolly not being ruff enough with the car

JIM

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 7:21 pm 
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You have a real old book. Should be .020". Could be all your problem is.

Try the pedal with 1 finger- should be about 20-25mm of free play at top of travel before you feel clutch pressure. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 7:27 pm 
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hey steve
yeh i get the same problem going into 2nd
engine's a 1100 clubman
gearbox from the moke

just double clutch (is that putting into neutral and then going into 2nd)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 8:29 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
You have a real old book. Should be .020". Could be all your problem is.

Try the pedal with 1 finger- should be about 20-25mm of free play at top of travel before you feel clutch pressure. 8)


The minis like all pommy cars have so many wear points in the clutch linkage that when they start to accumulate gear engagement becomes difficult. All the clevis pins wear, the holes they sit in wear, the end if the clutch arm and its hole wear, you get the picture. It all adds up. Get that right then think about the box.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 8:31 pm 
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68matic wrote:
hey steve
yeh i get the same problem going into 2nd
engine's a 1100 clubman
gearbox from the moke

just double clutch (is that putting into neutral and then going into 2nd)


Steve shouldn't have to do that. His box was just rebuilt by Greg, (low 'n blown) wasn't it? Not normal. My box has done around 70,000 miles since I put new synchros in it 9 years ago, it's still good enough that I can shift without the clutch if I've a mind to.. :shock: not that I often do... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 8:39 pm 
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Take a look at this page, http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/id68.html you need to scroll down the page to the clutch section and you will see some good hints about the clutch and gearshift.
The page is about the Austin America but it is all the same as the mini.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 9:42 pm 
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Steve, the box in JAM was the same before I took it off the road. It sux hey!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:07 pm 
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Anton.... i'm not pissed off about i'm more intrigued as to why it is doing it......... i mean it's a brand new box so i am inclined to think that hopefully it is something simpole like clutch engagement settings or something like that :?

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