Pay heed to what the Miniman says in the reference article above. The throwout stop is there to prevent the crankthrust bearings being stuffed by overloading once the clutch is fully disengaged.
We are talking about the 2 large nuts on the end of the clutch cover NOT the clutch arm stop. The clutch arm stop has nothing to do with the throwout stop.
The stop prevents the clutch from overthrowing and overloading the crank thrust bearings as once the clutch is fully released there is no point in allowing any more clutch travel, which is what happens if the throwout stops are missing or not adjusted properly. Once the clutch is fully released, the diaphragm has 3 brass studs which hit the flywheel once full release is reached and prevent any further movement of the clutch plate relative to the flywheel, so no matter how much more travel is allowed it doesn't do anything to release the clutch buts puts unnecessary load on the crank thrusts.. Any further force on the clutch just loads up the crank thrusts.
Its easy to adjust them and once set they don't require any further adjustment unless you have to replace any clutch parts, plate, diaphragm, throwout/release bearing etc. Hydraulic problems also have nothing to do with this adjustment.
You can do it yourself but its easier with a helper.
Take off clutch lever return spring.
Loosen throwout stop lock nut and back off stop a turn or two.
Either lever the throwout arm to the full release position using a tyre lever or large screwdriver or get your helper to depress the clutch pedal fully and then lever the arm as above until it will not move anymore
Screw the stop nut up to the cover and then screw in one more flat (1/6 turn) and run the locknut up to the stop.
Let the arm return and then holding the stop with one spanner tighten the locknut making sure the stop doesn't move.
Refit the arm return spring and adjust the arm clearance to 0.020" or 0.060" for really early cars with coil spring clutch plates.
Its worth noting that early cars didn't have the stop and suffered crank thrust bearing failures so the stop was introduced.
If it wasn't necessary then BMC wouldn't have put it in.
The fact that the clutch arm has been bent to make it work indicates wear in the arm mechanism. Check the ball on the end of the arm and the hole it fits into on the release bearing carrier. Check the arm pivot pin for wear and replace any worn parts. Bending the arm is a temporary fix only and is a sure sign of wear.
I'll get off my soapbox now.
Hope this helps
RonR
