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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:11 am 
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Hey,

Previosuly a post was removed about the minimatic painting so I can't see it all.

Did someone say they can have a cheaper way of doing it instead of wasting $10 gran.

Thanks,
Ben

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 Post subject: painting
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:32 am 
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PM mini_mike
I think he lives near you. He is a painter and a nice guy. He should help you out.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:45 am 
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mini-dunger:

so he's Mini_mike?

ic, sweet, thanks man.

Ben

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:22 am 
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$10,000 to repaint a Mini is absurd!

Please visit some other panel shops with your car and speak to many professionals. Everyone will have a different opinion on what you should do and how much you should pay. Take all the information you are offered and make an educated judgement after that.

You wrote a lot about this car of yours. Did you remove it? I can't find it now?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:27 am 
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$10K is the price they give you to make you go away so that they can get back to changing plastic bumpers for $3K...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:33 pm 
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Hey Dunger, you know mini_mike personally? I might approach him to see what he thinks since he put down him as a spray painter/panel beater as his profession.

Cooper: I will. I will take care of my baby and get the best medication for her :x . The thing is that where to find these people who I can trust.

Also, the question comes when I am wondering if a normal panel beater/spray painter is alright for the job or one that is specialised in spray painting minis is better (and to what extend is better). I think $10,000 is sort of expensive too despite the fact that I know they will do a perfect job. That guy from www.vcdc.com.au has been in the business for 25 years and has worked in the paint industry for M.Benz, Ferrari, and BMW.

Afterall, I just want it to be done properly and professional so rust won't come in sight gradually. If there are better alternatives to achieve the same result, that would be awesome! But I know cheap is no good and good is not cheap.

I think the Moderators removed it, not me.

9YaTaH:
changing plastic bumpers cost that much? oh good money. I think I need to change my profession sooner or later from a Software Engineer to a panel beater/spray painter. A top Software Engineer can get over 120,000 a year. Of course, TopTop Software Engineers like Bill Gates can earn the world's money , but it's rare.

But I think a spray painting/panel beater can get heaps more now! :shock: That's why I think (at least for this moment) it would be better off to be a blue-collar than a white collar [Note: this is personal opinion, so don't remove the post, getting phobia about my post being removed, keke :? ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:36 pm 
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The paint and panel on my car was just under $8k. It was full bare metal inside and out. The body work and paint is flawless, its been on the car for going on 6yrs and still looks as good as it did when it came outta the panel beaters!!! 10k is a lot, or is the car full of rust and needs a lot of body work?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:54 pm 
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This is one of the best shells i have seen should not cost more then 5 grand to do at a panel shop.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:01 pm 
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Hanra:

Oh really? 8K. It must be a good panel beater then. Did you strip it down and bring it there? WOW, i saw your mini, it's really cool. Did you do the work yourself or you brought it to a mechanic?

It seems superficially (to just a normal person) the car has no problems as it was just freshly painted in 2 PAC. The body was straight. All it was is the the right door, the bonnet and the boot is very hard to close.

Before this guy giving me a preliminary rough estimate $10000 for the paint job, he used a magnet at several places, especially the edge of the door and the front. it showed some signs where the magnet had no/minimal reaction. Which he says it could be rust or it was heavily bogged. But for sure he can see some small places where there are paint chips giving rise to cracks which were a direct result from the bogging underneath the new paint with plastic fillers. I didn't notice the place under the headlights when I purchase it but he told me the lines running down the headlights are filled up with it so you can't really see its detail. I don't know how can one treat her like that? Giving her to eat plastic filler and not fibreglass/mental...haha.. :D

He said he never know if it was rust or just fillers if he doesn't strip it all down. But he will give me a precise quote next week when I take it in on Sat. Don't know under what circumstances can he find out how much the cost will be though!


BEN

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:22 pm 
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Just so everyone knows what they are advising on and the condition of the mini , the links below are from when Brad did the resto on it .

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7731

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15936

The mods realise this is a touchy subject , people are already upset on both sides and we ask people to treat this fairly and avoid taking sides , we will be watching this closely .

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:45 pm 
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Just don't wanna talk about who is right and who is not from now on (i.e. the seller nor the buyer) which wasn't my original intention to do so at the very first place. We both agreed with the trade/transaction.

All I was blaming was the person who did the pre-purchase inspection (and I didn't mention his business name after I know it's not allowed on this forum) . Also, all that I am here is for finding help and solution. Nothing more. so no one take sides or anything and never do that please.

So I am more than happy if you can add in your valuable opinion for the what the "topic" is actually about.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:50 pm 
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just becuase there is bondo in some places doesnt mean that what is underneath is rust.

The door/bonnet hard to close might just be panel adjustment. 10k is lot to spend on what could be a simpler problem.

The paint crazing/cracking is it localised or all over the shell . Do you have any pics of the problem areas?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:53 pm 
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It might help others too Ben if you were to say exactly what you want with the mini's paint , are you after a show car finish , equivalent to a new car's paint (remembering they are far from perfect) , a usable everyday paint job that you don't want to spend every weekend polishing and worrying over or something you're happy to leave in public car parks all day . There's a lot of variation in the quality of spray work available , if you are after show car then the $10,000 quote may well be where you're looking . Is the mini for everyday use ? WHere do you park it during the day ? Is it garaged at night ?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:59 pm 
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Doors hard to close on a rebuilt car is often just the brand new door rubbers. They do take a while to settle in.
As for the bonnet, they are often adjusted tight to stop them rattling on the 2 rubber stops. This is a 5 minute adjustment with a spanner and screwdriver, if you want it looser. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:04 pm 
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I painted my car for way below that, under a 1000! go to http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2466560 to have a look. Athough I must say it does look a bit better in the picture than in person, but not by much. But I did all the work (with help from my dad) including stripping, panel beating and bogging. Neither I or my dad had ever painted a car or ever done a project car before either. It certainly is fun, and is a definite elarning experience but won't give you the same outcome as a professionally painted mini in 2-pak. I was quoted around $2,500 for 2pak red on my car. With me doing all the body prep. But I wanted union jack roof and that would have sent it way up! So I decided to have a go and I reckon it was worth it.

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