hi, is it possible to change valve stem seals without taking the head of?

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i like to drive on rails

yes

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

how do u do it? need any special tools?

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i like to drive on rails

Nah - the valve stem seals are little rubber caps with a small circular spring to hold in a grove on the stem. Just slip/pry the old ones off and slide the new ones on until the "click" You will have to remove the rockers to do it though and the springs - that could prove tricky with the head on but can be done - in the long run it would be quicker and easier to whip off the head

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

You've got to be able to hold the valves up to stop them falling into the cylinder when you remove the valve collets (cos the seals are under the spring caps, they need to be removed). I know of people who do this, but as a gasket is less than 30 bucks, I never bother. You can lift the head and inspect the cylinders, valve seats and chip away some of the coke while you're at it if you lift the head.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

yer ill just take the head of. ive had it of a FEW times lol.

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i like to drive on rails

Don't do anything until more people post with their own advise. My advise is based on quick fix between races type of work.
If you want to do it properly pull the head off, but if you know the head is good you can do it without taking off the head.

Most valve stem seals are crap and will not last very long. Todd Miller in the USA sells Viton valve stem seals and they are very good quality and last forever.

You will need a tool to remove and replace the valve spring. You will probably have to make something.

The hard part, you have to hold the valve up while you take the valve spring off.

Two different ways...
1) Get an adaptor that will screw into the spark-plug hole and hook the adaptor up to your air compressor and use air to hold the valve up.
2) Take out the spark plug and get a length of thin rope, feed the rope into the cylinder till you can't push anymore and then turn the crank to push the rope up to hold the valves.

To remove the valve springs, get a socket (about 3/4-19mm) and sit it over the spring retainer and give the socket a hit with a hammer, this will loosen the collets (they are locked in place by the taper between them and the retainer) If you give the retainer a few hits you can get the collets to jump out. MAKE SURE THAT THEY DO NOT FALL DOWN THE PUSHROD HOLES (or anywhere else!)
Once you remove the collets the retainer and spring can be removed.
Fit the new valve stem seals and refit the springs.

Do one spring at a time. Dont pull them all off at once.

And how the hell do you push the spring/s down to put the Collet back on

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Special service tool #XYZ.
BTW if you do pursue this dodgy(IMO) method, buy a handful of valve collets, you'll probably need em. They ping into space.....

Do yourself a favour if you've never done it this way, pull the bloody head orf and do it properly.
Often you find the real reason it's getting oil past the seals is, the guides are worn.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Most valve stem seals are crap and will not last very long. Todd Miller in the USA sells Viton valve stem seals and they are very good quality and last forever.

...keeping in mind that we are talking about known carcinogens that give off Phosgene gas when burnt

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"Show me the Mini!"

Mick these never get that hot.... they are INLET seals. No need for exhaust ones.
anyhow if you did the phosgene will go out the zorst, with the other carcinogens, benzene and xylene and toluene...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah....not worried about in the engines....it is when people throw them in the fire or whatever

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"Show me the Mini!"

If you are in a car with burning valve stem seals I would suggest that you may have bigger problems to worry about than cancer.

Pulling the head off may expose you to asbestos fibres from the old head gasket, so to we leave the head in place too?

On most cars you can fill the cylinder with compressed air to stop the valve dropping, not so sure on a Mini as you have to undo the back cyl head nuts to take the rocker gear off so you'll probably upset the head gasket anyway.

If you had to replace a broken valve spring out in the middle of nowhere then these tricks might work, if you want to do the valve stem seals then take the head off, that way you can lap the valves and decoke the head whilst your at it.

The only part that is Viton is the lip and just below it. The body is brass, like all good valve stem seals are.
Not much phosgene producing potential here...

I won't use any other valve stem seal in MY motors, these things last!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.