mm yes I have been looking at the old SU and tuning. IMO they are a bot over complicated for what they achive, by this I mean there is a lot of factors that effect the way they meter the AFR, Damper rates, spring rates, needle thickness, bi metallic strip...; not to forget they are all 20 years old and suffer a bit.
I think a good starting point is
1) Start with the best carb possible i.e no dodgy air flow mods to the body...
2) Give it a full rebuild so all of the parts possible are changed.
3) inspect the dash pot plunger for wear including the piston and dashpot body.
I got a new Old Stock so I had a new float and bimetallic strip etc. There is a useful mod on Turbo minis to replace the bi-metallic strip and make one out of standard steel one. To stop the mixture changing with the heat... (Something I will do for the next time the carb is off)
Its interesting to see that my car was setup on the other side of the world and the needle profiles are close to Bens 1275 data. I presume there is an effect of the charger that keeps the profile similar.
I used the following to measure my needle then searched an on-line data bases for needles that were close and that's how I found the BCG.
www.theiansons.co.uk/mini/suneedlestations.doc
Which looks a good starter if not a bit rich top end. I will hopefully give it a try this weekend with my tech edge kit. But it might be a good starter however you cant add the material at the bottom end if its too rich, but it does match the profile type.
I have found a guide that shows needle polishing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/inde ... 59683&fr=0
but it seems a long process of removing very small amounts and the trying the car in different driving conditions.
I used this quick spreadsheet to look at the needles to see the differences in profile. you can changed the coloured squares with new data.
www.theiansons.co.uk/mini/needlecomp.xls