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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 5:42 am 
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The originals were 10" Honda Citys, I got mine from 13secmini (ex NZ). They are on our Clubbie (still off the road).
Our `pretend S' also has a set in 10's- Honda Civics, running 10x4.5 Jellybeans.
See pics in Gallery forum.

Only differences from 12" setup, to fit under 10" wheels-
1. The 2x 12.0mm mounting holes for the caliper are 14mm further back (horizontal),
2. The discs are turned down to 7.9",
3. The outer pad's plate is ground away inside to miss the hat of the disc,
4. The pad mount bracket needs a little grinding of its mounting lugs to clear the wheel.

BTW, Revoulution 10x6 wheels will fit over these brakes without any spacer..
:P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 9:42 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:39 pm
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Location: Gold Coast
The pistons in my calipers seem to be pretty much siezed. I'm starting to think they might be able to retract into the caliper a bit more and give me the extra millimeters I need. Any tips for getting the pistons to come out of the caliper?

Because the pads I have a like brand new... less than a mil under thinner than spec... I'm thinking if the rotor was worn thinner then the piston might have siezed in a slightly on position.

Another quick question... I haven't closely inspected disc brakes before (as you can no doubt tell). Mine have kind of a thin metal frame/braket that keeps the pads in place. Do most pads have something like this?

dewey

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 1:06 am 
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1098cc
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Location: the Cold Toast QLD
we got a set on saturday. they have small thin retainer clips. if you want a look to compare (as we are on the coast too) your more than welcome... might even be able to find enough room in the garage to squeeze ya in for a look LOL... PM a phone number if you want to


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:31 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Gold Coast
Hey guys,

I have one side together :-D Pretty happy about that. My backing plates are nothing spectacular as I cut them with an oxy & have done some typically bogus work with the power-drill putting the holes in the general area. Couple mm play shouldn't be too much of a problem so long as everything runs true should it?

I'll probably do up another set of Civic discs all pretty next year and have the backing plates laser cut.

I've got a question about wheel studs. I swapped my long ones with Jeff because they're too long to run without a spacer. With the smaller, standard studs, I'm a little concerned that I don't have enough thread going into the wheel nut... probably 5-7 threads inside the nut which can probably take about 15-20. This doesn't seem ideal to me but I'm not sure what options I have???

dewey

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:21 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
There are big wheel Moke studs, are a bit shorter than the long ones you had. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 8:41 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Gold Coast
Soooooo close.

I've got fit issues on both sides. I've got those Tempe Tyres superlight clones, brand new DBA #191 rotors, 140mm calipers, the pads that came with them have been used about 1mm.

I set it up with about 2mm room between the outer lip of the rotor and the inside of the caliper. The outside of the caliper is just scrubbing against the wheel. One side I can bolt the wheel on properly and it spins, taking a bit of a layer off the paint inside the rim. The driver's side won't quite bolt up properly. Bugger!!!

dewey

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:09 pm 
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dewey wrote:
Soooooo close.

I've got fit issues on both sides. I've got those Tempe Tyres superlight clones, brand new DBA #191 rotors, 140mm calipers, the pads that came with them have been used about 1mm.

I set it up with about 2mm room between the outer lip of the rotor and the inside of the caliper. The outside of the caliper is just scrubbing against the wheel. One side I can bolt the wheel on properly and it spins, taking a bit of a layer off the paint inside the rim. The driver's side won't quite bolt up properly. Bugger!!!

dewey

Sounds like you may need to space the wheels a little bit, somehow. Anton used 25mm spacers made from old S drums, but you won't need that much.
Yeah I know- `spacers (as such) are illegal. So, how come the last 4 parts shops I went to for Xmas pressies have them hanging there for sale! :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:32 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Gold Coast
I thought that running a spacer cut from an old drum was legal? HRM.

I'll try and tweek it so that the caliper sits closer into the center of the hub and hopefully it'll stop rubbing. Alternatively a ~10mm spacer will definitely solve the problem.

Bugger, I just swapped 8 long wheel studs & 2 stepped drums for these short wheel studs today! I've been working on it non-stop since monday... another day won't hurt.

dewey

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:39 pm 
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dewey wrote:
I thought that running a spacer cut from an old drum was legal? HRM.


dewey

Well the info I have suggests (in NSW) if the `spacers' are screwed to the disc/hub or the wheel, they are no longer considered spacers.

By `illegal spacers' I meant the plain ones hanging in Auto One etc, with the slotted holes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 12:36 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Gold Coast
So I've got two old clapped out spacer drums & 7 long wheel studs (I'm banking on finding the 8th somewhere in ze garage).

I've cut one down with the grinder and it looks ok. On the inside part there's a bit of a lip which I think I'll need to take off as well.

This outcome isn't ideal but hopefully it will let me get the car down to lismore next week to put the new engine in.

dewey

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:21 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
My calliper mounting plates are made up!

A mate-of-a-mate who has a lathe made up the adaptor plates for me. A fantastic job he did of it too! :D

Note these plates were made up for CITY callipers and discs, with the discs at standard size. The plates are 12mm thick. I worked out the dimensions throgh trial and error, then made them up in plywood first to make sure everything lined up. 8)

Image

Image

(If you're reading this, cheers Frank!)

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:31 pm 
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Brett,
You must have different discs to my CITY ones, there's only room for 3.5mm plates in mine! (but my CIVIC ones with DBA191 size discs take 7 or 8mm plates).
Whats the total disc width? :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:44 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
dewey wrote:
The pistons in my calipers seem to be pretty much siezed. I'm starting to think they might be able to retract into the caliper a bit more and give me the extra millimeters I need. Any tips for getting the pistons to come out of the caliper

dewey


Depends how seized they are. The first method is to use air through the fluid inlet hole. If this fails go to step 2. screw a grease nipple into either the bleeder hole or the inlet hole and block the other one. Get a hand operated grease gun and start pumping. If it doesn't come out with this throw it away. Using these methods saves trying to grab the piston with vice grips and the stuffing around that ensues. If the inlet or bleeder is central behind the piston you can use a thin drift and a small hammer. I reckon the best way is to let the professionals do it. If you get them stainless lined you will never have to do it again. I am going to get every cylinder on mine stainless lined. Cast iron is crap and evry time the rear shoes are changed you have to fit new ones.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 7:45 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
drmini in aust wrote:
Brett,
You must have different discs to my CITY ones, there's only room for 3.5mm plates in mine! (but my CIVIC ones with DBA191 size discs take 7 or 8mm plates).
Whats the total disc width? :wink:


Total disk width is 40mm. The dimensions line up exactly with City VF - DBA 194. Exactly the same as a couple of other City's I looked at.

I reckon your NZ ones must have been some strange import model. With 3.5mm plates my callipers would never fit over the disks. :shock:

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 9:59 pm 
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My discs are 44mm wide, look like Civics. Maybe I should source some newies then... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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