Hi,

Just in the process of getting one of these heads bare (had a LOT of work done) but has standard valve sizes (hard to go bigger without offset valve guides, and who would need to?)

What valve sizes do I need, and what valves are recommended?

Cheers

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

I'd say stick with the factory valves. The chief problem I hear about the AEG163 is that it cracks in the thin sharp area between the valves. Getting bigger valves would make this think area even thinner...

If you want big valves, just put on a 12G940 head and store the antique collectors item away!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I'm getting the head off the local engine rebuilder who was doing it up for his own car (before his ex divorced him, took the house and his mini )

It had cracked but he has put inserts in the head and welded it (spent around 35 hours of his time on it all up.)

It is set for the standard AEG163 valve sizes (bigger exhaust than 'S' 12g940).

I just can't remember the standard sizing, and wanted to look at prices of valves....but need to know the sizes!!

Cheers
matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

1.401" inlet, 1.219" exhausts.
Valve stems are ~2.0mm shorter than those in a 940 head so watch you get the right ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

in mm should work out to be 35.8mm for inlets,31mm for exhausts
in stock
cheers josh

Inlet valves 1.401" Exhaust 1.218" (AEG593 & 594). Do yourself a favour and fit no-lead inserts & phosfor bronze guides. Lovely.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Thanks guys!

Is there anything special about valve springs, retainers, guides etc I should know?

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

There are two different theorys as to why they crack the head between the valves. The first theory is poor design (that doesn't teel us much!) the second theory is that there is a sharp edge between the valves, especially after they have been re-cut.
If you round off the sharp point it should prevent the crack from forming.

There is a marked difference in the water passage between the valves, compared to a 940 head. One head has more water there, I can't recall which.

BTW I've run these same valve sizes in a 940 head for years, no cracks yet... touches wood.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.