Hey all,

So i complained to you guys a few weeks ago that my mini would not even turn over and it turns out that I needed a new starter motor. So i went out and baught a "new" reco motor from MG Heritage. Looked great, pulled the old one, plugged in the new one and it went great. But that was last week...

So today I go to start her and it turns over very, very slowly, like my battery doesn't have any juice or something Now before you guys jump the gun, my multimeter reads 12.2V on the battery, same on the coil, same on the solenoid, same on the starter motor connections. The lights are on, the light dim when I turn the key, but it won't start! it's just a slow wirring noise that I get back...

I checked all the connections and I don't think it's that... I have started charging my battery again overnight to see if that is the problem but I want to know if I got a dud starter motor? Or is it something else even more sinister???

I JUST WANT MY MINI TO START DAMMIT *Chucks a tamtrem*

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

easiest way to find out if it is your battery is go into your local K-Mart Tyre & Auto
ask them to test your battery, should have a battery smart tester
just cause your battery is showing 12.2v means nothing when trying to start car what your interested in is what CCA the battery is capable of in its current state (flat, stuffed, ect)
also worth a check is your alternator
start the car test voltage (should be like 14.4) turn lights on then check again
rev up round 2 g's check again if it goes below round 13.5 alternator is prob on way out

sorry no points for workin out where i work

or to test the batery your self just get a metal rod and put it over the 2 terminals and if it sparks real big you know that your battery is fine ( but there mite be a slight possibility that you will stuff your battery terminals or the rod). my other suggestion would have to be the alternater. ill ask my dad for ya m8, he would be able to tell you straight away

_________________
i like chicken

Well 12.2 is pretty low if you have a decent battery but still should be enough to start the car. I posted last time all you have to do to test the starter motor. Take it out and test it on a bench with a battery (+ on the battery to the terminal on the motor and - on the battery to the body of the motor) let it spin for 3seconds (dont let it spin for longer or it'll start smoking). If it spins fast then you know your battery is fine and the motor is ok.

Test the pinion on the motor (the metal thing with the internal spring on the opposite end to the brushes). It should be in one piece the internal spring not broken, it should travel freely to one end on its shaft and when you let it go it should spin by itself all the way back. The main spring (the very heavy spring on the end should be in one piece too).

If all of these are allright then there's nothing else that could be wrong with your starter motor. Now put the s.motor back in, put the car in gear and turn the key for a second, If the car is rocking then the flywheel is engaging the pinion. If the motor just keeps spining but the car isnt moving (and its in gear) then the starter motor motor is not engaging and its a dud. From here its the usual fuel - spark test. rock the car backwards and forwards and check for spark etc.

Anyways recharge or replace that battery, you want it in medium to high 12's atleast. 12.2 is way too low.

Batteries have been known to explode when shorted in this way. Check the engine earth. Failing that try using jumper leads straight onto the starter bypassing the car's battery and battery leads. If this works the problem lies in the battery or leads.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I doubt the new starter is at fault, but what about the flywheel's ring gear? If chewed up it can jam the starter pinion, new starter or not.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hey 68delux
i have exactly the same problem with 74 clubby and i mean exactly the same. one thing i have noticed is that the starter does get real hot, as if its trhowing back the current. i have taken the starter out to test and it works fine yet the wiring and all also seems to be fine. I am going to do further diagnosis on ti after my exams on wednesday, but i ahev been told by a number of mechanics to get a new starter motor and work back. i am not gonna throw away money though on stuff i dont need. let me know if you find a solution and vice versa

have a look at the distrabution block the black thing that the battery cabble hooks up to b4 the starter and look for corrosion if it is corroded i would say that is the likly problem .... you lose conductivety ..... you need a good clean connectin so it will allow not only 12v+ but if it is dirty gumed up and coorodid it will lower the ampage that is flowing voltage dose nnot start the car ampage dose..........
makka

_________________
Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Sorry for the late reply. It seems that the battery is the problem! Since I bought it new 6 months ago it has gone flat once which effects their lifespan somewhat... Also I have a 280 CCA (Cold Crank Amps) battery which I am told by the good doctor that it is piss weak and I should look for Landrover batteries with twice the CCA like 400 or 500 CCA.

Anyway it turns out that all the battery needed was a good recharge and it was good to go... I was not 100% convinced it was the battery as 1) it is new, 2) I installed the 75W pulsar alternator which I was almost sure it was doing a blardy good job, so hence I refused to believe it was battery related

Live and learn... I am very dissapointed in the short life of this piss weak battery tsk tsk tsk... Looks like I need a ph@tter battery

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

i went from a 320CCA to a 540CCA battery a few years back and the difference was amazing!

Yeah? that's what Kev said! well after this electric feul pump issue is solved, I will look into a new battery...

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

in the cold, your battery needs more juice at start up. A high CCA battery will start your motor first go...a low CCA battery will have a hard time cranking your motor. That's why so many batteries fail in the winter

You will notice that it will spin your starter motor much quicker too

I see is that why Kev's Rev Machine starts first time and mine starts 7th time?

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

ooo didnt remember that when i posted it..oop but thanx for reminding me

_________________
i like chicken

my hard starter trick for both my moke and matic:
unscrew the carby piston
pull out, push in, vigorously a few times

leave it out and start (should be about 2-3 times)
when started, screw back in

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...