that means they are lean! WOW! I actaully got it right for once!

That means the filter is breathing far too good for your current jetting. You need to make the idle leaner for a start, but if that doesn't fix it, you need to change needles...

Once fixed it should go better as it is breathing deeper.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

The symptoms you're describing as said can only be the fuel to air mixture I had similar problem early last year only to find I had the wrong jetting and probably even the wrong carburettor on my engine......

As has been said make sure its running rich see how that effect it or u might need to go leaner its really trial and eror when it comes to jetting. I jsut hope its fixed soon because if you get what happened to me it ran too lean for too long and I blew up an entire piston, valve and pretty the entire cylinder lol.

Damn.... Why didn't I leave well enough alone !! Tried looking for an electrical problem to solve that backfiring by changing the leads, cleaning the plugs, checked the dizzy and all connections, swapped the coil around and checked all the wiring even swapped the alternator out for my old but reliable one.

Now I can't get the damn thing to start . What the hell have I done?? You can turn the key in the ignition, all the lights show up on the speedo, ignition et all and you can hear and feel the starter solonoid clicking away but nothing else !!!

What the hell have I mucked up now??

TasTyger

Tyger-sound like you have a dead battery. Have you tried to jump start it?

If your batt is OK, check connections ie battery, earth and main cable to your starter. All connections should be super tite as there's a lot of amps involved here.

I would have thought backfiring due to 1. Incorrect ignition timing 2. incorrect valve clearances, or 3. burnt/leaking valves.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I had bad backfiring just after put the Pulsar dizzy in. I thought I had done something really bad, and was scared. But no, the clamp on the dizzy was bent and wasn't clamping well enough and self adjusting the timing. Got the car home, on a combo of starter motor and bad running. Put a spare clamp on, re-timed it and done. Runs great.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I am that frustrated it not funny. Can't afford to get an auto sparky in to look at why the moke won't fire so i'm just pulling my hair out !!

Had the battery tested from where I got it (only 3 months old) and it tested as well above its rating. So its not the battery. Still get the clicking at the solonoid when you turn the ignition but its like no power is running down to the starter motor. The starter motor itself whirls like the devil when you take it out and bench test it but back in the car nothing. When you boost the power with jumper cables and amother battery the motor will just wind over. You can see the alternator and the fan winding over. Theres power going through the system. You can see thst with one of the little light testers. Swapped the solonoid for another one but still exactly the same thing.

Completely bamboozlesd and frustrated....

TasTyger

When you say it works off the car but not on, I think of that old earth strap on the motor, without one it won't work, well it might, but by earthing crappily through the engine mount bolts... Hmmm, I dunno just a thought though.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

You could also try jumping it straight from the main power terminal on the power relay onto the + terminal on the starter and bypass all of the cab wiring. Battery terminals on the battery clean and tight?

Or push start it. And then you'll know if it's your starter wiring I guess, if it starts. Otherwise the igntion circuit might be thrashed.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Im testing lynx

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Testing the lynx
manifold again

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Well before I call in the auto sparkies I'll give it one more post.

I swapped out the lucas starter motor for a gemini starter and then jump started the car without any worries. Drove her for 2 ks (on a hill stopped her and tried to restart - nothing - ) Managed to run start her without any probs. took her on a 20 k run to see if it would make any difference but lo when I stopped in the driveway and tried a restart - nothing !!.

The - ve side of the battery is getting extremely hot and the - ve terminal is actuallly covering with white sheiBe even as we speak if that gives any indication to the problem??

All the lights on the speedo that are suppose to light up when you start do so but nothing else ?? You can hear the solenoid on the gemini starter clicking but thats it??

Completely baffled ....

TasTyger...

Clean your battery terminals to start with , if the outside's covered in white stuff , the connection may not be too crash hot either and it's heating up trying to get the full current through a small connection under the big draw of starting .

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Thats the weird thing about it. I poured hot water all over the -ve terminal to clear the white crap at least more than two times. Within a 1/2 hr you could see the white crap building up all over the terminal again I can't rememember all my high school chemistry but has this to do with the acidity of the battery and electolrolosys process??

TT

Something like that .. I meant take the lead off the terminal and clean the battery terminal and the clamp with a terminal cleaner or a file so you have good contact on as much of the terminal as possible , you're only cleaning the visible stuff outside , not the important surfaces inside .

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