Hi,

Just taking everything off to do the timing chain, can someone confirm for us...

Does the crankshaft pulley come off before the timing gear cover? If it does, what's the best way to get it off? Does it require a 1&5/16 spanner, and how does that work? The pulley just spins... (of course.. )

Pic!

Pic of victim 600x800 135KB

Marty & Manda

OK what you need is a 1 5/16 socket and breaker bar. There will be a locktab holding the bolt down so you have to take that off.

Remove the starter motor and get an old crank bearing shell and wedge it into the teeth of the flywheel so that it locks the flywheel against the cover. Then undo the flywheel pulley.

One way to keep the cogs inline is to keep the shell in there and keep the car in gear once the timing chain is off to prevent the car turning over and misaligning your cogs...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If you're new to minis and don't have an old bearing shell, I use the handle of a very small (5mm or so ) spanner to jam in the teeth.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks much for the advice, I was just going to ask what I should use as I don't have anything close to a bearing cap laying around

I have the starter off and am going to try your suggestions.

It won't hold the teeth in position like the bearing shell will though, just try not to move the crankshaft and cam too much once it's off to prevent self doubts or errors. This will also work for removing the nut off the camshaft as well.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

That Worked!

But now, how do we get the crankshaft pulley out? It's hitting the engine mount. Do we have to lift the engine? If so, I don't think we could do it...

Pic!

Crankshaft pulley 800x600

Marty & Manda

Remove that entire bracket by undoing the two bolts through the subframe and the two long bolts through the gearbox . Only jack the engine up using a jack and a piece of wood to spread the weight SLIGHTLY, just enough to remove the plate. It might help to remove the engine steady on the other end. Once that is done undo all the bolts around the timing cover and remove. You must be having lots of breaks as you do this huh?

If you don't have a jack, I once lifted the car up using the standard car jack and then lowered it down slowly to the ground after placing a block of wood under the engine just thick enough to lift the motor slightly.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah, taking our time with it, want to be sure we're doing things right. Thanks for the info!! Let ya know how it goes...

Marty
The pulley is on a shaft with a keyway - the keyway stops the pulley spinning on the shaft under a load. It has to come straight off and probably the best way is with a couple of large screw drivers (or similar) to act as levers.

Be careful not to loose the keyway chuck or to damage it. Be sure to replace the oil seal on the timing cover - its a bugger all cost - use aviation gasket goo on both sides of the paper gasket and do not over tighten the timing cover bots when putting it all back together as they will snap off

Finally - dont forget to note which way the oil slingwer comes off and DONT forget to put it back on.

Mike

Marty

BTW - in the photo provided it also shows that the water pump is seeping slightly - the most probable cause is that the pump body has become corroded - you may get away with a new gasket but i think you should also be looking at a new water pump.

The ONLY one to buy is the high capacity type with the extended cast metal impeller .

Hi Mike, thanks to you and everyone for the great info, I will be sure to be extra careful with the keyway chuck and oil slinger. We have purchased new gaskets for the water pump, thermostat and timing gear cover plus a new oil seal and I have borrowed a torque wrench for reassembly, so lets hope all goes well. The person we bought the mini from said he had put on a new high flow water pump recently. How recently? I dunno. It seems fairly new and in good condition.

Here is a pic of the front of the water pump after we took it off today(480x305 35kb) and here is a pic of the impeller (300x185 26kb).

Here is a pic of the block sans water pump (600x592 120kb).

The picture we posted earlier was also taken after the water pump had been removed. We plan on doing a thorough clean and scrape of the surfaces getting gaskets.

We managed to lift the engine a little using a board and the jack and we have removed the engine mount. We are ready to remove the crankshaft pulley and timing gear cover tomorrow.
Thanks for the help!

Marty & Manda

Marty
Okay - the water pump looks fine - it is a cast type high capacity and newish looking.

In the original photo I just saw the water traces and it rang alarm bells. I didn't realise it had already been removed.

Seems to be a dowel missing from the block for the water pump? I am sure there are two? Did it come out with the pump?

Maybe slight misalignment is allowing gasket to leak?

Maybe not? put thin smear of goo on both sides of gasket and take care over the alignment. Overtightening of the fan belt later might move pump?

Or am I being over anxious!!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

Mike - Ok, that's good about the water pump.

Graham - We will have a look at the dowels and be sure to smear goo on both sides of the gasket.

We have a .pdf mini manual here that someone gave us but I'm not real sure it's applies to our mini exactly. I can't find anywhere in it that states what year or models of minis that it covers. Does anyone know where I can get the various torque specs I'll be needing for a 1100? I'm not sure of the year of the motor. If I am reading the previous owners posts correctly, it may be a mixture of 3 different 1100 motors.

Again, thanks for the help!

edit: after reading the manual some more, I found this:

This manual covers changes to Mini models
manufactured from VIN SAXXNNAZEBD 134455
and should be used in conjunction with the following
manuals... and Publication Part No. RCL 0193ENG (5th Edition)

Can anyone confirm that this manual would cover an 1100 engine?

It will be the same as for the 998 engines at a glance. I just do the large nuts up up bloody tight and that has always been enough I have found. It is very important that the lock washers are used properly though.

The crankshaft pulley bolt should be torqued up to 70 lb/ft (9.6 kg/m)
Timing cover bolts for 1/5 and 5/16 bolts are 6 and 14 ft/lb respectively.
I can't see the torque value for the cam nut, but will keep looking.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.