Ok, We took out the starter, and jammed the spanner in the flywheel, so it wouldn't spin when we were taking off the crank & camshaft nuts. The instructions say to align the dots on the timing chain gears. I went to remove the spanner from the flywheel and, of course, it fell in. Does anyone know how I get it out?

It won't come out with the magnetic pen, infact.. I can't even see it.

Manda.

You will probably need to remove the clutch cover, clutch and flywheel.
This can be done in the car in a couple of hours, it's not a big deal.
Use a main bearing shell instead of a spanner, it fits nice in the ring gear teeth, locks it safely and is probably too big to fall in there.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the advice everyone! We've decided to do as the doctor says, and finish one end before moving onto the other.

We have taken off the old timing chain and gears ( hooray ), and now we need to countersink the bolts. There are 3 bolts sorrounding the camshaft, 2 underneath the crank, so I'm assuming the 2 underneath the crank are the ones that need to be countersunk. I need to take off all 5 to get off the plate? Also, does the plate need a gasket or just sealant?

Here's a pic to describe it...

Also, I read in some other posts about hammering a spot in the timing chain cover in order to accomodate the duplex chain & gears. Here's a pic of ours, does it need hammering, and if so, where?




Thanks once again
We love ausmini!
Marty & Manda

Yep- those two bottom ones under and near the crank need countersinking and replaced with counter sunk 'V' head allen screws. Didn't two come with the duplex kit?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Gaskets usually OK, but sealant can't hurt. Not too much.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

That design of cover should be fine, no 'Knocking' required!! This is only required on later covers with the different shape when a tensioner for the simplex chain / and breather is present.

Watch those tiny 3/8 A/F bolts when you refit, easy to strip! also check washers, some bolts bottom out and strip if the washers are left off!

Nice clea n job BTW that's the only way to be inside thre motor!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

It's usually a good idea to "centralise" the TC by inserting the pulley B4 you fully tighten all the TC bolts. Aso, a smear of oil on the pulley shaft so the seal does not run dry and burn

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I don't use locktabs anymore for any part of the car. They are usually made of soft chinese steel and I have first hand experience of locktabs letting go and what dammage it can do.

Loctite is the way to go on everything, flywheel, flywheel housing, crank pulley, everything that requires a loctab, loctite it.

The only exceptions are ball joints, diff and a few other bits, in which case loctite and locktabs

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Advice noted - can you advise what # Loctite as i get confused with them all

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

theres so many ay

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

270 or 271

It says "High strength threadlocker" on the bottle

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Try eBay for Loctite - I got a 50ml bottle of 272 for some ridiculous price like $8 from a guy selling multiple items. He is a Motor bike parts place in Sydney. Also got a 50ml of the one for bearings from a private seller for about the same price. I now have enough Loctite to last the rest of my days

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

GR says don't Loctite the mains or rod bolts, just smear them with molygrease and tighten up. No lock tabs.
It's the stretch in the bolts that keeps them tight.
ARP bolts NEVER have lock tabs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes and don't do rods and mains. Read your ARP installation instructions that come with your rodbolts...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

ARP say to torque it up three times - backing off between each tightening.
Do you torque to the figure on the dry run to check clearances etc or just nip it up and it doesn't count?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!