rover fuel tank with in built fuel pump will be from an injection mini, way to much fuel pressure for carby unless you use a metro turbo regulator and fit a return line

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I'm not getting ignition (alt) light and oil light when I turn the key
checked the eart strap and thats fine
also the fuses

I'm getting 12.5 v on the starter and the power cable on the old solenoid

Well ur gunna need 12v at the coil to make it fire!!!!! When u say u checked the fuses.... did u meausure them or just look at them? Put ur multimeter onto the ohms range (omega symbol) And put either probe on the ends of the fuse. It should meausure a short circut or about .1 ohm.

If the car started b4 u started ginning round with ur wiring, then my money is on a wiring fault. Its possible ur ign barrel is faulty, but i doubt it. No point just replacing crap willy nilly, u need to do some fault finding.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I measured the fuses and it read 00.1 so thats fine

I charged the new battery overnight and the alt & oil light is coming on again but this time when I try to start it wont even click.

so measured if theres power going to the starter motor and its getting 12.8V

Do u still have the standard mini starter motor? Does 12v appear at the starter motor when u turn the key to "start"?

Other types of starter motors have an onboard solenoid (unlike the remote mini type) these starters will always have 12v going to them (even when the keys are out of the ign) its a big fat 12v supply cable. There will then b a switched 12v which kicks the solenoid in.

Wat setup have u got?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I read ur other post where u have put a gemini starter in..........

I cant help with that..... maybe u should just put the stock mini starter motor back in....

I would assume tho, the gemini starter will have a large terminal which will have constant 12v on (big fat supply cable) then there will b another smaller terminal where the switched 12v (smaller wire with 12v on it when ign key is turned to start)

Its very basic wiring. But im only guessing what u have.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I installed a gemini starter motor yesterday and it was cranking strong but last nite and today it wont even make a clicking noise or crank

its got 12.8V on the starter motor constant

Yeah it will have constant 12v. thats normal. BUT does the other wire have 12v on it when u turn the ign key to start. If there is no 12v there then the solenoid will never engage....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

just tried my other ignition barrel and same thing no solenoid click and the -ve terminal/cable on the battery gets really hot

No point swapping parts around. U need to confirm if there is a switched 12v that appears on the smaller wire on the solenoid when the ign key is turned to start.

When u say ve- u mean the neg (ground) terminal on ur battery?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

yes theres 12v on the starter motor when key is on the IGN position

yes the -ve cable/earth on the battery gets hot when I try starting the car.

Well then if u have a constant 12v supply, and a switched 12 ign supply and its still not cranking, ur starter motor or solenoid has crap it self. Try tapping the solenoid (not the starter motor) with a hammer as it may of jammed...

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I tried shorting the solenoid and the power cable and solenoid is not clicking at all just normal sparking but no click
so must be the solenoid then.
tried tapping it... no go

Yeah well it should of at least gone click or wound over. So dare say its either really jammed or its really crap itself. Chuck the mini one back in!

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