Well I've been having fun lately pulling apart my spare 998 engine in preparation for the swap with the one in the van that is not doing so well. For those of you that don't know it overheated and now instead of 125 psi like the other three cylinders, No. 1 has only 55. I don't know the exact problem yet as I haven't had it apart but it has been sluggish and it drops a heap of oil every time I drive it now. (I think it's coming out around the dip stick)

I'm using the block from the spare engine (60 thou oversize surprisingly) and fitting it to the existing gearbox. It's a 1964 850 van so I don't want to cut holes in the floor to take the different gearbox etc.

Anyway, as this is only the second and third engines that I have pulled apart and will be the first that I have put back together, I was just wondering if there is anything that I need to be careful of that the manuals don't mention before I start the reassembly. Thanks for any advice.
Ziff

If you pull out the dizzy drive for any reason, do not attempt to put it in without a bolt screwed into it, it will fall into the gearbox.

Pay attention to the idler bearing clearance. This is mentioned in the literature but the gaskets now are thinner than they used to be so make sure you check it.

Don't forget the o-ring between block and box at the rear.

Try to use the original transfer case housing that goes with the gearbox, they will be a better match.

Use Loctite/Permatex blue RTV as sealant. I use this instead of gaskets on locations that don't need a gasket as a spacer but have also used it to smear on gaskets for that extra confidence. The trick is to clamp lightly, let it go off say overnight then torque up fully. I have no oil leaks in my turbo engine and this was built 10 years ago.

Put a new clutch plate in, it's cheap as these days, I think a whole kit can be found for less than $100!

Don't be tempted to take short-cuts, if something looks dodgy replace it otherwise you'll be pulling it out in short time.

After you warm up the engine for the first time, let it cool down and go over all the bolts/nuts to check they are still tight. Many gaskets relax after heating up.

Have fun, don't rush and most of all take a break if something is not working out, you will come back fresh and the b@#%$ard will just slip in.

Regards

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Sounds a bit like a blown head gasket Ziff...you should check that first before changing out the mighty 850

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Here is a treatise written by A series engine builder Colin Dodds of Spriteparts. It was written for mini club members a couple of years ago.

The only thing that I would add is that you have the bore measured for wear as they mostly wear tapered and simply fitting rings or rings and pistons will give a fairly short life if the bore is tapered. Pistons with rings kits have recently come down quite significantly in price.

Herewith Colin Dodds;
I joined this group to assist where I could, and not to tout for business. There are a number of competent mechanics and engine rebuilders out there who deserve your business. (Of course, I think we fall into that category too.) But equally there are a number of inexperienced people who will, if you ask them, be only too happy to work on your car. You shouldn't be paying for their learning time and for their mistakes.

A few people have asked for indicative costs for the engine rebuild items I listed. OK, prices follow. Please note that on purpose I have looked up no price list for this. Why not? Because this is an indication, not a quote. The prices are from memory, but they will be close enough for you to judge whether you are getting good value for money from your chosen rebuilder.

Please note also that cheap isn't necessarily good. Our basic engine rebuilds average around $2,000. A performance engine can easily be double that. I am currently building a 1030cc short stroke Formula Junior engine, with a budget of $12,000. But if cheap is all you can afford, I can refer you to 2 places where you can get a fully rebuilt engine for $1200. I know this because we have re-rebuilt 4 of their engines over the last 18 months.

You get what you pay for. Just make sure you do get what you have paid for.

$180 remove oil gallery, welsch plugs and cam bearings, and chemically clean bare head and block
$60 new oil pump
$70 new water pump - high volume
$12 new timing chain
$32 new (not reground) cam followers
$60 new oil gallery, welsch plugs and cam bearings
$50 hone bore
$90 to $160 for new rings, depending on brand and size
$50 linish crank
$70 new big and and main bearings
$240 service head (new guides etc)
$50 mill head face (in our experience, approx 50% are no longer flat)
$60 mill block face (ditto, 20% not flat)
$90 dynamic balance crank, front pulley and clutch assembly
$60 to $80 static balance pistons and rods
$80 quality gasket set (eg: Metro Turbo head gasket)

Other MUST DO items will depend on the engine, such as:
$120 re-bore
$300 to $400 for oversize pistons depending on size
$35 to remove and replace 998cc or 1098cc pistons
$100 to remove and replace 1275cc pistons
$160 re-grind crankshaft
$80 new timing gears
$150 regrind camshaft

Optional items for more power and reliability are:
$800 to $1000 for cylinder head mods
$0 for performance cam grind - same price as standard cam grind
$100 extra for high compression pistons
$300 lighten and polish rods
$200 new ARP rod bolts
$200 new ARP head stud kit
$750 roller rockers
$250 performance exhaust system
$600 for fully serviced twin 1.25" SUs with new heat shield on manifold
$900 for new 1.5" SUs with heat shield on manifold
$750 for fully serviced 45 DCOE Weber on good new manifold

Sorry guys, I forgot to add a bit of important info.

This is the 850 van that at the moment has a 998 engine in it (the crook one). I am driving this car until my other car is on the road then this one will be completely restored.

I'm not worried about all of the replacement bits and pieces as it only needs to get me around for about the next eighteen months or so. Then I will be rebuilding the original 850 to go back in. I have bought new gaskets and seals from Karcraft for when I put the engine back together but apart from that I am going with it as is.

Here is a pic of the spare block after I have given it a little clean up and split it from the gear box.



Here is a shot of the cylinders after I gave them a light rub with a scouring pad to remove a little bit of carbon build up.



Ziff

Love the 45kgs of protective gunk covering the gearbox casing

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

It was over the whole thing. I had to sit there for hours with rags cleaning it off the block bit by bit with a little bit of WD40. I wish I had degreased it a couple of years ago before I pulled it out of the Clubby I rescued it from. The CV/Uni boots had desintegrated so I presume that's where most of it came from
Ziff

I did a bit of cleaning up of the head today.

Before





After





Slowly getting there. Hopefully the new gasket set will be here tomorrow.
Ziff

Ziff
Most of us who have been around motors for a while can tell you that you have a couple of problems with that head and the valves. The very last photo shows a valve sitting very unevenly in the valve seat and its probably because of badly worn valve guides.

In other photos several of the valves are sitting very low in the seats and should be replaced because the valve seal angle has so little metal left that it will soon burn through.

my last comment may cause some comment but the head in general is typical of what I have come to see when the user is using unleaded petrol without an additive. That is; Heavy carbon build up, noticable valve recission etc.

I am not trying to be clever or nasty but I do think this head needs a full machine shop service

Doc - whats your opinion. ????

Thanks Mike. I used a small wire brush in the drill to clean it up and thought it had come up alright but I didn't know about what you just mentioned.

I'll have a look at the head that comes off the current engine this weekend and see if things look a little better on it. I thought there was a bit too much crap built up on it

Ziff

+ port and polish too!!

Seriously though, head service is cheap as so make some enquiries with your local specialist or one of the companies listed in the ausmini thread here http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10543.

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

If the exhaust valves have sunk into the head it's a good time for a set of unleaded seats to be fitted, along with 4 new exhaust valves and a set of guides...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I do understand what you are saying but this is a temporary fix as the 850 engine will be fully rebuilt eventually to go in when I restore the car. I'm not interested in forking out a heap of cash for a rebuild on a temporary engine. I'm only driving the car a couple of times a week to and from work which is 10km each way.
Ziff

I appreciate the advice though fellas as it gives me pointers on what to look at when I do the 850 engine up so it's not falling on deaf ears.
Ziff

Ziff
Spending the money on the head will not be wasted. It (the reco'ed head) will go onto your 850 when you are ready. But yes you can just bolt this head you have cleaned up onto a temporary motor and you can drive it.

It does have problems and you are now aware of them. Mini motors are tough and when it is all said and done and you are not contemplating 163 laps of Mt Panorama.