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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:04 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Isn't zinc the major component of a sacrificial anode? Sorta like attracting it huh?



*stands corrected on the gold plated bolts :oops:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:10 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Isn't zinc the major component of a sacrificial anode?
Salt water is the major component. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:18 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Mick wrote:
Isn't zinc the major component of a sacrificial anode?
Salt water is the major component. 8)

It depends... most fresh water is to some extent conductive. Vitreous enamel (`glass') lined water heaters all have a sacrificial anode, it lasts about 6 years usually. Just past the warranty period... :lol:
Anode composition varies depending on the location, ie. how hard the water is- it's an alloy of zinc, magnesium and aluminium.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:32 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
Doubt a tropical fish tank heater would get to 60C. In my youth I used to keep fish, and my dim memory tells me the max temp was about 40C or less.

Mike would know, he had tropical and marine setups much longer than me.
KB


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:35 pm 
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1275cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
Vitreous enamel (`glass') lined water heaters all have a sacrificial anode, it lasts about 6 years usually. Just past the warranty period... :lol:


Ahem, Yes, I'm surprised the ACCC don't knock on Rh**m's door over that. It's so common to hear people say their Hot water system carks it around that time. Mine took 10 years. At the time mine went, a quick cruize through the streets saw at least four others on the footpath within a month or so of mine as well.
KB


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:51 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Bris Vegas Occupation: Engineer
Mick wrote:
Isn't zinc the major component of a sacrificial anode? Sorta like attracting it huh?


Sorta... It's lower in the galvanic series to steel so could become the sacrifical metal should a 'battery' be formed. There is an explanation on the galvanic series here.

The main reason for replating bolts is to restore the finish so they look new. Be careful though as they clean parts with hydrochloric acid and this can cause hydrogen embrittlement.

I would suggest getting only good looking bolts/parts replated to restore finish, bin those that are heavily corroded or don't have any of the original plating left.

Daniel

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:04 pm 
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Here's something for those of you with lots of parts to plate. There are lots of different types of home plating kits - the really good models come with everything you need and the site has prices.

http://www.eplate.com.au/

Sorry if everyone has seen it before.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:28 pm 
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1018cc wrote:
Here's something for those of you with lots of parts to plate. There are lots of different types of home plating kits - the really good models come with everything you need and the site has prices.

http://www.eplate.com.au/

Sorry if everyone has seen it before.

Yep those kits (and results) look good.
I got mine from www.janekits.com.au
there are prices on there too.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:31 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
What's the goldbrite zinc?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:33 pm 
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Mick wrote:
What's the goldbrite zinc?

It's zinc that has been passivated I think, makes it look a bit like cad plate.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:50 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Pretty sure that's what they must have done with my bolts, I don't remember them talking about nickel, only zinc.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:07 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I have a small zinc plating bath and also a nickel one. The zinc one is already up and running, but it's tedious work doing lots of small stuff.

The nickel one will work once I source a small, cheap heater (needs to run at 50-60C). :wink:
How about this one?

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:39 pm 
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998cc
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Now thats ghetto! :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:05 am 
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try using your rheem heater in a bigger tank (garbage bin?) and pumping the hot water through a copper coil in the small tank. that way you can control the temp with flow by a ball valve, and the heater is electrically isolated from the plating bath....

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:11 am 
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I have a link somehwere for DIY plating - I will see if I can did it up

<EDIT>
Here you go
http://www.mckennasgarage.com/xke/jag_16.htm


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