Hi

I just finished replacing my stock alternator (about time...) with a Ford EA Bosch one
Bosch Part Number: BXF1255
85 amps

I used a Magna lower alternator bracket with the belt tensioner <---- cool easy adjustment









Still having problems though I'm getting somewhere around 13V on idle and around 14V revved but having issues with idling now. It slowly idles down from the normal idle speed rev it and goes back to normal then slowly goes down again. Just got this adjusted by TheMiniMan a few weeks ago and has not been driven that much at all.

Looking good...maybe you could fiddle with the pulley size to allow for the generally higher revs

Should be a stickey in the how to's

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"Show me the Mini!"

Looks neat!

I got an N15 Pulsar one in my car (70 amp), works well but I the alternator light on my dash (LS tripple guage) doesn't work. I've talked to toher people with similiar conversions, but have the same issue as me.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I had to remove a washer behind the pulley to align it
The ford alternator pulley is quite similar to the mini pulley, so thought it wouldnt make a difference.

It's OK size pulley for a Mini.
Just watch that pulley isn't worn, or the belt slips regardless of tension. The one on my EA was real bad.
So I bored a cast iron Lucas 15AC one out to fit.
The iron ones wear lots less than the split tin ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The Ford pulley cant be worn as the alternator is brand spanking new
belt isnt slipping as well but if I got no other options might just buy a new one for trial and error.

tried adjusting the idle screw and now it idles around 900rpm - 1000rpm but it stays there
if I set the idle lower than the idle goes down slowly till it stalls.

sorry, about the late reply but i just found this topic. is the wiring much different from a mini alternator set-up. i'm thinking about doing this conversion.

I cant remember exactly but its quite easy conversion

wiring is very similar to the pulsar alternator conversion
2 pin plug marked as S and L
L being the circuit on the dash
S is the sense wire coming off the battery circuit

I think I used a 2nd hand injector connector

goodluck!

looks better then my one, i had a n14 pulsar one which was fine, then it died and i got commonwhore internals fitted to itto boost output to 90 amps, and now the casing is a bit to large to fit nicely.

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Shouldn't 'S', come from igntion? As to not drain the battery when the cars off?

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I have one out of a Ford KA Laser in mine. No idea on power but it works a treat, noy a single problem.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I agree, the <S> wire should come from the fuse which is switched by ignition. The one the blinkers and stoplights connect to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Oh sorry I remembered I did connect it on the blinkers
been a while and did not document the conversion

All Bosch new style RE60 voltage regulators (like the one here in question) have two terminals marked L and S. The 'L' (lamp) goes to the warning lamp and the 'S' (sensing) goes straight to battery + I prefere straight to the B+ terminal on the Alternator itself. This treminal does not draw any current when engine is not running like someone suggested. Do not connect S terminal to Ignition because if you have a voltage drop "which is very possible on a Mini" the regulator will sense the low voltage and make the Alternator charge at a higher rate which will result in overcharge. Also make sure when you fit one of these Alternators to a Mini add a couple of 6mm cabled in paralell from the B+ treminal of the Alternator straight to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Remember the original Alternator only produced 35 A max and that is just about what the original wiring can carry. This will help the 85 Amps get to the battery without sqeezing through the original wiring and warming it up !

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