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 Post subject: Rear Wheel Bearings
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 4:57 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:39 pm
Posts: 1629
Location: Sydney, E. Burbs
I'll have to replace the rear wheel bearings in the car as they are god damn noisy (strange as they were repaced by a mech a couple of years ago).
Anyway, firstly I was wondering about the whole process: How hard is it to remove the rear hub? Is a special puller required or can it be done w/o one?
What about te the bearings, can they be relaced without "service tool 18g260"?
Any other tips or advice?

Cheers
Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 5:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Rear hubs come off easy usually, if they stick on shaft use a slide puller screwed onto a wheel stud.
Note the LH rear hub nut is LH thread... a trap for young players. :lol:
You can get either Timken tapered roller bearings, or balls, mine has run the latter for years with no problems. But Timkens are not much dearer now. and will last longer. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:32 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 5:15 pm
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Location: Melbourne
Hunt around before you start for a piece of scrap brass rod - say 6-8 inches long and 1/2 - 5/8 thick. You will need to hammer out the old bearings from inside the hub, and its best to use a brass drift so that you don't damage the hub (brass is softer than steel so all the damage will be on the drift and not the hub).

Also if you need a puller for the hub, just put the brake drum on backwards, then screw the wheel nuts halfway on backwards with the flat instead of the tappered surface on first, then you can quickly slide the drum back against the nuts and use the weight of the drum to pull/knock the hub off.


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