Well after initially stripping back all the underside of the mini, and eventually getting it coated in por15, (which looks awesome btw) I'm unhappy with the durabililty. It doesn't stick properly. I followed all the instructions, but I never got any orange salt&pepper stuff, it just always went white powerdery, which I tried to was as much off as possible.

So, I'm gonna get some quotes, and get lots of teh shell sandblasted. I'll get all the nooks & crannies done, then come home and prime it.

Anyone else had problems with por15?

see http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... ight=por15

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had heard of a few bad results before I used it, but also heard good results. So I figured I'd give it a go.

So this time, depending on how much sandblasting is going to cost, I'll just etch prime the whole car, then use one of those normal thick underbody sprays (the ones that look factory, all bubbly sort of thing).

Oh well, you live and learn, I'll earn some more money and do it different.

over here sandblasting is cheap, imo, it cost me like 55 bux for 2 complet doors and a complete boot, only to find 1 door was fahked.

the stuff u want for the underbody, is stone guard or bodyshuts, make sure u use seam sealer on all the panel joins first, stop any water creping in.

cheers

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

my step by step was on my 850 shell(as recomended by my mate, panelbeater tox)
1: bare metal
2:etch prime
3:seam seal
4:stone chip gaurd
5:body deadner
6:prime again then whatever your spraying you car with

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

I am very happy with my POR15 application. If it was not totally bare metal then I think the results would not be as good. If it wasn't totally bare metal then you weren't following the instructions

I went back to totally shiny bare metal on all parts. It's hammer tough... screwdriver scratch tough...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

What annoys me about POR15 is the way that they have slowly changed their hype and procedure over the years.
When it came out POR stood for Paint Over Rust, you just flaked off the loose stuff and slapped on the POR15 to get an outstanding job. Did it work? Of course not! If the paint fell off they just blamed bad preparation.
So they added a step and it still didn't work everytime, so they added another step, and another....
The only thing that has remained the same over the years is to blame the bloke that is putting it on when thing go wrong.

99 cent cans of body deadener at super crap

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

Well tend to agree with that as they do hype it up. However come on - what fool would slap it straight onto rust or onto a painted surface where rust may be hidden with NO preparation whatsoever...The instructions are clear in saying you remove all loose scale, convert it with the metal prep, let it dry and then clean with marine clean and then paint. Have had POR 15 on my subframe for 2 years now with NIL peel and fading...agree that it is expensive poop however the 6 P's come into it - Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

This aint an endorsement as I think it is way too expensive and frankly you waste so much of it. The consumables are a waste of money and you really cant reuse any uncanted stuff(as I found out after following the glad wrap sequence..). Oooo and the gloves are porous...found that out the hard way after 3 hours...Stuff doesnt come off skin either...food for thought...lol

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

They market the stuff directly at the backyard car restorer market, they don't aim their marketing at the professional car painter. So that should give an idea of what sort of fools we are dealing with.
Look at the name, "Paint Over Rust."
It should be called "Paint Over Meticulously Prepared Surface that has been Treated with another one of our Overpriced Products."
Like I said, when it first came out the instruction was remove loose scale and apply. (Just like rust converter)

From experience, I had poor results with the finish, but I was NOT using it as a top coat.

After top coating the POR with standard acrylic colour, then rubbing this back to remove imperfections, the POR is tough as nails. I can block back the colour with 400 wet/dry, and hit the POR underneath, but I cannot block back the POR to reveal bare metal!

I like that kind of protection on Mini metal!

I've heard too much grief from people using this, I'm going with the opposition, which has been proved scientifically to give better protection and does NOT require a bare steel surface to work.
http://www.rustbullet.com/
I'll let you know how it goes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It appears some people are having poor results with Por. Ah well if Rust Bullet doen't work you can always tell it to shoot through

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Let us know doc - be interested in seeing how it goes

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

I might just be a wise guy for 5 minuites. I don't trust anything that claims rust converting qualities you can slow it down if you remove scale and paint on underbody seal to keep it watertight. But really the rust (all of it) needs to come out. I have a electronic rust retarder in my ute (I have welded it up soo much their must be small holes) and I am not foolish enough to want it to rust. and really the only way is to take it back to bare metal and have a really good look at it and then quickly undercoat it then put something suitable over the top that's hard wearing and appropriate.

rust converter only works on the surface that's currently rusting and it needs to get there, so all scale needs to go. if you leave air in there it's still going to rust

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)