They all appeared to have the same - some had one or two sealed beam ones installed - most had none at all

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

carefull about claims of curved glass, I bought the angel eyes H4's off fleabay and was told they were curved, but much flatter than the original mini's. I have seen a few kit from Hella with curved glass but they are too expencive.

The way I plan on getting around it is that I have a pair of 7' spotlights that I bought cheap for a rally car, they had a clear plastic dome on the front.

they all go together as one and it looks like I have curved glass, and should stop me from smashing the lens if a rock kick's up

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

what wrong with flat glass, someone is going to give we a science lesson

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

I've got curved H4 sets made by 'Wipac', got 'em from minisport. SLightely less curved than sealed beam but totally unoticeable. Yes curved is not as good from a headlight perspective, but form looks, flat sucks.

They were expensive, about 100 bucks for the pair, with halogen 'globes' and have a parker built in to them. Look great and work great, with relays of course

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

100 bux is cheap, I brought my 2 sets of Wipacs in from MSC and they cost about that each set.
Yes, I reckon they are good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Honda city's have the H4, that are concave, there is a steel braket on the lens that just unscews

I always use two relays one for the high one for the low, but only one fused feed to both relays, straight from the starter solinode

my neigbour reckons he knows its me coming home by the bright lights and the exhaust note.

I've nutted out a schematic for anyone interested. With the floor mounted dip switch I moved the High bream wire (blue/white) to the centre terminal and the power in (blue) and the Low Beam (blue/red) to the double terminal (formally high beam) the third terminal is unconnected(formally low beam). To save cutting into the loom there is a connection point at the back of the instrument cluster where the dip switch wires meet the loom and the power from the light switch. - I'm refering to the MK1 layout - other models may differ.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

i got some curved (curved as a lucas original) h4's from a honda city yesterday with bulbs for $10 each.
they are stanley but look just like lucas's. i'll take some pics later if anybody wants to see them

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Yes please

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Why the second relay? Not just for the 30 amp fuse is it, cos all you need then is an inline fuse or fuse box terminal?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

2nd relay cause you are switching a high current with low as well as high and the old Lucas switches get weak at the knees. This way you are only switching in the coils of the relays at a very small current and letting the contacts in the relays cope with the arc like they are designed to do.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Oh, I see.

I have just two single pole relays. The switch provides 12 volts to the dip switch, which then fires up the h/b or l/b relay.

Same result, just two of the same relays.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I have had my H4's for well over 25yrs and they have been in at least 6 cars without a problem why do I need a relay?

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

To make your switch last longer & reduce the chanceof letting the smoke out of the existing wiring loom

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Made mine brighter too. I had some dodgyness going on about the place (when is lucas not dodgy?) but with relays it all works better.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T