hey guys
the can in the middle of an su carby, can anyone suggest a type of oil that i can use, i know not to use engine oil but this bloke told me to use auto tranny fluid, have nt tried that one yet,

any advise

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

I find Dexron ATF works best.
Motor oil is too thick generally.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i use a tiny bit of wd40 dont know if its right but it works ive also been told sewing machine oil? that was some random guy on the street who told me that

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Enjoy Chris

Sewing machine oil/3 in 1 oil works, but is thicker than ATF.
WD40 is not oil really, it's got more solvents than lubricant.
Of course, you could always use genuine SU oilz.

If oil too thick it'll bog down on initial acceleration, too thin it'll get a flat spot. Generally......
It's pretty much impossible to say `this will work in yours' as most of our cars have been modded in some way by now.
Barney's twin HS4s run fine in summer with nothing in there, but in winter they need ATF. So now I just leave it in.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Its is a matter or differnt Oil's thicknes.
I do use Tranny Oil in my HIFF44

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Use ATF, WD40 I wouldn't recomend, and I tried singer oil 50/50, but I ended up using ATF as it's about the right balance, but you can play around a little and thicken it up/ or thin it with singer or motor oil. But ATF seems to be the right viscosity for a healthy a-series

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

Yep totaly agree...but every Carb and Engine are differnt so you need to play around...try differnt Oil's...buit of a game realy to the way you want it to run

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

yeah you need to """SORT""" the whole tune dept as a package & the oil in the dash pot is just one part of the package

WD40 is more of an abrasive than a lubricant so be warey, & it will most certainly eveaporate far quicker than just ablout any light oil

I use Auto trans fluid in some but mostly i make a particular mix to suit each & every one i tune

say what you like about that last statement, but that`s what i do & so far no one has complained & they all seem to come back to get me to tune it again if/when needed

it`s all about "The Tricks of the Trade" & all the "Black Art"...no it`s not, i`m just kidding it`s all easy when you know how, & i`m still learning too

"""The More I Know,,, The More i Know i don`t Know"""

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Wiser words were never spoken

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

atf dextron 2, 3 are s.a.e 20, 30 with friction mods. for auto trans. I used diesel fuel and different spring rates when setting up for either road or race. diesel is not abrasive it lubricates fuel pumps, and does not evaporate quickly.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

ATF is actually glycol based, not mineral oil.

Back before WW2, diesel fuel was used for lubricant in the diesel railcar automatic transmissions of NSW Railways. True story- ATF had not been invented yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.