Hi,

my D4R83 from a UK 1.3 Sunny has double springs ( two in each weight/post ) and a 14* advance plate... i'm thinking if i should try to remove the inner springs...

Cheers,
Luis

i have an 1100 A series will it work on this motor or is it only for the A+?

Yes they can be used for either. The details in THIS thread are for A series. See my other thread http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11178 for fitment details to an A+.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hay there doc got my car running and tuned with my nissan dizzy. Works great engine starts better/idles better and revs a lot faster now even compaired to my A+ electronic dizzy its better

I do hope you reduced the centrifugal advance by shortening the slots, as detailed in this thread ....

Watch if it kicks back during starting, the shock load can break Lucas starter pinions. I have a collection of busted ones.
I fixed that problem by adding a kill switch to the coil's 12V feed. Turn it off, spin starter, throw da switch.... CONTACT!8)

The reason it can kick back is the power pack module in it will fire the plugs at zero speed, unlike a Lucas with points.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

got mine installed today
what a Blardy difference
havent shortenend the slots yet no Mig

its on the todo list though

Thanks Doc for all you helpfull knowledge

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I now find a better and neater way to shorten the slots is braze them with nickel bronze rod. Unlike using MIG the deposit won't go hard (the plate is hardened originally) and my 5mm milling cutter has an easier life.
The end of the slot is only a pin stop, so not subject to wear. Nickel bronze work hardens in use anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Doc

is there anything to be gained by running a hotter plug??
being
Hotter plug= fatter or bigger spark
or have i got the wrong end of the stick again?

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No you have it wrong-
a `hotter' plug just means the insulator runs hotter in a given engine.
The insulator is longer on hotter plugs and shorter on colder ones.
Shorter gets rid of heat quicker so it runs colder, but is more likely to foul.
Hotter ones won't foul as easy, but if too hot for the engine the insulator can blister, even crack.
With unleaded fuels, BP and others recommend using a plug 1 grade hotter than stock, particularly in city driving.
ie for a Mini, use NGK BP5ES instead of BP6ES,
Champion N11YC instead of N9YC,
Bosch W8DC instead of W7DC.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ive got one here in bits so I can clean it up and grease it. I was wondering how does it advance the timing?. I understand how it goes together but I dont really understand how it advances. I know that the centrifigical force moves the weights outward but how does this change the timing as there is not fixed link between the two?


Ideas?

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On a Pulsar dizzy (Hitachi) as the weights move out with centrifugal force, the 2 pins move in the slotted plate attached to the top part of the shaft assembly. This advances the timing until the pins hit the end of the slots, the slot length determines the maximum mechanical advance.
As I said previously in this thread the slots are welded up and made around 2mm shorter than original, for use in a modified A series motor. This reduces advance to around 10 (distributor) degrees, or 20 at crank.
Static timing then usually set about 8-10 degrees BTDC to give 28-30 degrees total max advance.
The rate of advance is determined by the springs. There are usually 4 springs in these dizzys, 2 each side (one inside the other).
For a smallbore with RE13 cam (on GR's advice) I take both the inner springs out, for a 1275 I just take one inner spring out.

Clear as mud??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yes thanks doc, I asked that question forever ago. I am glad you got around to it.

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Sorry, only just noticed you had posted to it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc, I have a van that had fuel injection fitted to a 1275/1310 with a TD-03A (10527) dizzy, Im told it is a Honda dizzy? The injection has been removed and I want to use the electronic dizzy. the main issue I have at the moment is to find out how to wire it. the dizzy has a green and a black wire and the coil had the green wire to the positive, presuming the green is in the right place where do I put the black?
I am also not sure if this dizzy needs a box, I have been given a small box that has NEC-MC5187 on it but it may not be to do with the dizzy.

When I got this van the injection had been removed and wires cut all over the place, ive got most of that right now and have had it running on a standard dizzy so all should be good once I find out about the wiring and the box? Can you help?
Noddy.

PM `4myego' he has a Honda one we took off his S motor. There is a gizmo box outside it, unlike the Pulsar one- but I think both dizzys were made by Hitachi.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.