Do ALL front tapered roller bearing kits have a machined spacer that fits between the 2 bearings?

I'm fitting some this weekend and have about 3 new sets of front bearings in packes, but haven't checked if they all have spacers.....

From what I understand the latest type bearings don't have a separate spacer. The inner races now incorporate an inbuilt spacer.

RonR

... which is fine, IF the hub's centre web is not worn at all (as many now are, after 30+ years).
With the old ones you could assemble, measure endfloat then put the spacer on the lathe and make it thinner- to get the .001" original preload again- with these new one you would have to wash the bearings out, surface grind the `spacer' bit, rewash em and grease again. What a PITA.
I believe the genuine Timken kits are still using the separate spacer, the ones I got last year do...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I still think the Timkens come with a sperate spacer - it's the non tapered type that have it built it

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I got timken's 3 months ago and they had a separate spacer. I think that's the way you'll find them now

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

No idea what brand I have....but I have 3 new sets to choose from. They are going into NEW hubs....so I may well not need a spacer....yes?

You would still need a spacer i think..? It's just the wear in the old hubs means you need to make the spacer smaller than what it would have been from the factory 30 years ago so the preload is right.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

The tapered rollers have a spacer supplied in the kit, if swivel hubs are NEW, use that spacer and no other. It is selected to give right preload with those bearings and a new hub. so they say....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Get an old CV joint. Tighten the thick end in a vice. Press in the new bearing outers. Assemble bearings with supplied spacer (no grease only some light oil) on the CV and tighten nut using a suitable spacer between outer bearing and nut. If too tight the hub will be hard to turn (check as you tighten nut, you may feel the individual rollers gripping in the bearing or binding). If too loose then you will feel the play in the bearing set. Select or machine bearing spacer so that you feel a slight resistance in the bearing and no play. Hub should turn smoothly with no binding and a slight smooth resistance when nut is fully tightened.
Good luck