Hi Everyone, I have just bought a mini panel van and it crunches in 2nd gear (im not sure if its the sincro) and to select reverse gear i have to lift the gearstick to the right and pull it back.Is this normal for a mini???????
Please HELP

reverse is normal crunching in second is normal
makka
haw haw haw

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Reverse is normal for some gearboxes. Mine doesnt need lifting tho...

The 2nd crunching thing... does it crunch when u are getting too eager with your downchanges from 3rd to 2nd?

On rod change boxes `73 on you do lift it to get reverse. On older 850 or remote boxes you bang it across against the spring loaded gate.

re the crunching, it sounds like the synchro. 2nd gear is the first to wear out...!
Rebuild time...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My van crunches into 2nd, but, if you take it easy and slow the gear changes down, all is well. It doesn't like going back into 2nd from 3rd, unless ya going real slow. Syncro is stoofed on 2nd, but that doesn't worry me much, it will pull outa corners in 3rd just as well as it would in 2nd, it's no speed demon.

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Thank you for your replies that has helped me out heaps. [/b]

I remeber trying to find reverse when I first bought my mini clubman (the owner hadn't told be you have to lift the gear stick up) I sat ther for about 5 -10 minutes in the servo finding nothing but 4th and stalling a couple of times . I wouldn't have figured it out except my old man who came with me to buy it came over and told me.

Bye Arrin

...when I bought my first, I was half way up onto the car trailer and needed to reverse back to line it up better with the ramps......I didn't know you had to pull the lever up either.....sat there for a minute or two, very red faced....

re: the chunching in 2nd......JAM did exactly that when I took it for a fang, prior to it coming off the road for rebuild. I thought the gearbox was stoofed, but others have told me since that it might be clutch related. When my wife drove it, she never crunched it at all.....and she STILL reminds me about that, 2 1/2 years later....

She didn't crunch it because she wasn't driving it hard enough

Cheers

Aaron

AGREE!!

Yep crunching into 2nd when downshifting is normal if you do so with the revs a bit high, double clutching stops it from happening I was lucky with the reverse thing the bloke I got it from told me

Sorry guys, on Minis built from `63 on, this is NOT `normal', it's `common'!
The synchro baulk rings work to prevent this- if they not worn out, you can even change without the clutch, if revs are wrong it will just block the shift from engaging. (no I don't recommend you drive without the clutch..)
That is what the term `baulk' means.
But when they are worn out...
Crunching= new synchro time! Only $30+ each now for newies...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

"Only $30+ each now for newies..."

and the bearings, and the shafts, and the ..........................................

About $14,000 later, you've got a nice shiny box !!

seriously, about $700 + Labour to fully reco a box sound about right ?
J

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At least, depends on how much labor you get charged. I've heard of guys paying over $900, that was a while ago though.

Depends... Gafmo's (S/H 4 synchro remote box) cost about $700 just for bits, plus a few hundred labour. That was all bearings, layshaft, 4 synchros,& a comp diff pin. Did NOT include R/R. Selector forks were OK- they cost a lot if worn.
But, the ripoff merchants will charge you much more- I have heard horror stories of $thousands to remove, fix, replace.. .

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.