Hi everyone
A new member here. I've been out of the mini game for about 20 years due to family commitments, but i have returned!
I recently bought a 1970 roundnose which i was going to take off the road to restore but circumstances have forced me to get the thing on the road so i can drive it for a while.

The main problem i have at the moment is the front end. The uni joints are completely shot. can someone give me advice on changing the joints ie;the easiest way to go about it.

Also, it has a rod change type gear change and i dont have any of the brackets to hold up the back of the gear change box or for supporting the exhaust pipe can anyone help out here.

Well thats it for now i hope someone can help me

regards
Andy

Yes we can help you
We need to know a couple of things firstly - what sort of uni joints does it have ????? There are three completely diiferent types. Are you talking about the inners or the outers ???

The bracket for the back of the rod change is a fairly common item and a few people of here would have spares - the mounting rubbers are best bought new.

Do us all a favour and fill in your details like location etc on the Ausmini registration thingy so we know where you are and can best advise you to go to

Andy,

Welcome. Firstly, please update your profile to give your location. That way locals can help.

Secondly, your gearbox issues. If you have a rod change, you most likely have pot joint inners rather than uni joints. Please look at the inner joints and post whether they are rubber unis, steel unis or pot joints (cylindrical steel outer). That way people will be able to help you with changing them.

M.

Hi
I dont quite understand about inner and outer uni joints there seems to be only one set either side of the diff they have rubber knobs which i assume should have needle rollers inside( which arent there anymore) and are held together with d bolts ???? is that any help?

Okay Andy
Understand now - you have a mixture of engines and gearboxes by the sound of it.

The rubber uni joints are common on many earlier minis and morris 1100's. Later models and sporty types had differet types. They are readily available from suppliers like "Karcraft" (note the spelling) who are in Silverwater in Sydney and will readily accpt B/C over the phone and post them out. It comes as a complete kit with new d bolts etc. You do need the new d bolts !!!

As for the rod change supports - Try the Mini King in Narellan or send a private message to Doogie who is a ausmini member.

When you get the unis let me know and I will give you some tips on fitting them that will make it a bit easier but regardless its a fairly straight forward job. The rubber uni's supplied now are one piece.

Thanks Mike i'll keep you informed. do i have to remove the drive shafts?

No - you dont need to remove the shafts, but dropping the top ball joint on the swivel hub pulls the two joints apart a bit further and this makes the job of removing and fitting them just that little bit easier. Do get yourself a sizzor type ball joint / tie rod splitter from supercheap or repco. It makes all that stuff so much easier. I am like lightening when trying separate those joints with a hammer, I never hit the same place twice.

Okay i have gone this far - here is the rest while i am at it.

The car must be up off the ground and safely and securely supported on jack stands or somethig similar. If you can't use jack stands then send the job to a mechanic who can because if a mini falls on you it will kill you.

Now, with the top ball joints split (obviously front wheels are removed) you need to undo all the d bolt nuts - its just tiring for the arms and not difficult . The shafts will fall away as the last bolts are undone and removed.

Replacement is really just as simple in a reverse way. You may need an assistant to slip the top ball joint into position and support it with a bottle jack once you have the new d bolts started. Tighten them up and then rotate the shafts several times (by hand) to allow the new uni joints to find their resting position and then go back and tighten them all again - some will be loose.

Then properly refit and tighten the ball joint nuts on the taper, refit wheels etc.

Other may say its not necessary to drop the ball joints but it leaves you with a very tight working area fitting them if you don't. With a ball joint splitter its only two more minutes to do it that way. Dont buy a wedge type splitter and dont buy a C shaped affair where the bolt presses down on the thread. The sissor type simply is the best and easiest to use.

outstanding! Ta

meticulous advice Mike, as one would expect from an ex- RAAF'y (9 Sqdn?)

There is some warning in the factory manual from memory about overtightening the nylok nuts on the U bolts, but not sure whether this now applies to aftermarket joints, or if it does, what the correct torque is

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

There only two Mike Byrons in all of Australia apparently. The RAAFy is the other one. I have never met him but even DVA have confused him with me. He lives in or near Dubbo somewhere.

I was a nasho and served with 8 Field Ambulance although I had some rides with 9 Sdn from time to time and some support from the bushrangers.

are d bolts the same as u bolts. im tasmanian sorry

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

Yeah Al - they are - I just used the same terminology as the original question . I should have corrected it but I was minds eyeing the procedure and typing at the same time.

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion