Everywhere ay?

A bit like SC12-ed Mini's??

Gone will be the days of stocko mini's driving around.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Maybe it will be a better option to ditch the SC12 setup idea and twinky it instead.....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Thought about this.

Went online to check my bank statement...Computer says no twinky.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I was talking about adding EFI to any conventional engine, ie carby - not one that has EFI already

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

ok then

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

will the head clear the bonnet without a bulge or does it need mods.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Yes. No bulge required.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

only in your pants

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

my mate is making up GOOD QUALITY fibreglass bonnets especially for the bmw heads, i've been told the cross bracing needs to be removed, if the head sits that close to the bonnet i think the heat will stretch the metal and screw up paint.
hence the fibreglass bonnets

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

yes, the front half of the cross member does need to go , (on the round nose bricks) & sickaflex the back half back onto the bonnet so it stays hard.

But no buldge needed,,, (in the bonnet that is) & the heat hasn`t done anything to my paint (yet) but i can see the turbo is going to play havoc with it so i`m buying that alloy square section heat shielding stuff to help stop it damaging anything in the future.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

What does the Bimmer head do for torque - while horses are well and good, does the conversion suffer the same issues as the bike they are off - no torque below about a million rpm or is that unknown at this stage.

The Bimmers have excellent torque compared to most of the late Jap bikes, The Bimmer is rated at 100hp at 8000rpms where most jap bikes produce their peak HP at much higher

& yeah, my first bimmer (during test & tune sessions) kept spinning wheels & then ended up fried the clutch & we hadn`t tuned it past 4500rpms at that stage, so don`tbe fooled, they have the goods alol the way through that`s for sure

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

yep got that but I would like to get an eta of nm (lb/ft) rather than kw (hp). Some may be interested as hp solutions, others, like me , are intersted for grunt potential at low to midling revs (2-3500 rpm).

As for the bikes I dumped my BMW four for a BMW flat twin because of the lack of torque. Top end hp aint my thing, but I will say they are far better than big Jap bikes for torque, but that aint hard.

judging from the head and port diameters good torque should be available when fitted with the right induction lenghts.

btw.

does the welding to the head not play havoc with the heat treatment of the head ???? I am temped to solder the needed bit to the head bit I first have to try and find a scrap alloy head for practice.

has anhone had expeiences with this stuff:

www.easyweld.com

or the dodgydly named www.muggyweld.com

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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Yes, I've used that aluminium "welding" stuff. Its closer to soldering than welding, but the aluminium is such a good heat conductor that for a big repair you need to get the whole thing up to temperature, then it all melts on you and runs back out. Its probably OK for small repairs, but I gave up and used MIG in the end.

Tim