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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:32 am 
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998cc
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Location: Christchurch New Zealand
My BMC Australia manual says mentions 30, 40 and 30/40. It is a Mk1 era, so was this revised?

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Al


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:27 am 
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66S wrote:
My BMC Australia manual says mentions 30, 40 and 30/40. It is a Mk1 era, so was this revised?

Regards
Al

nity
probably not revised per say but definitely 30 would be your max. Under heat you'd have stuff all pressure with 40. 20-25 I've found to be the best for engine its what I'd recommend for a stoke and modified 1275. Can't comment on smlled engine or even if there's any difference between them. One other thing to note is that all manuals are rough guidelines. If you do something to your engine , jsut ask your mechanic what they'd recommend you use and use that. Mine said 20-25W so that's what Im doing.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 2:54 pm 
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66S wrote:
My BMC Australia manual says mentions 30, 40 and 30/40. It is a Mk1 era, so was this revised?

Regards
Al

Ref: my 1970 Drivers handbook and passport to service, printed 12/70:
It covers-
Mini 1100 and K
Mini-Matic
Cooper S
Mini Van
BMC Moke.

Manual models:
Mono and duo grade oils-

Below 10*F SAE10
Above 10*F- SAE30 or 20W/30
Multigrade oils-
10W/30, 10W/40 or 20W/50 is approved for all conditions.
*** However change period must not exceed the recommendations in service schedules.

Automatic models-Multigrade 10W/30, 10W/40 or 20W/50.
Additional additives must NOT be used under any circumstances.


*** <edit> my note- these are defined in this book as 3,000M/5,000Km for MiniMatic, and 6000M/10,000Km for manual cars.
However these days most Mini mechanics reckon change the Matic's oil and filter at 1,500M/2,500Km if you want the box to last.
I reckon 6,000M is too far for manual cars too, I do the oil at 1,500M and filter at 3,000M. My motto- if it's black, it's past it. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 4:28 pm 
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1360cc
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I need to pick an oil for my new extremely high performance bigblock, but i dont want to buy castrol edge sport at $60 a bottle :shock:

i was thinking penrite, but i do not require a thicker oil for my new engine, what is there in the thinner stuff thats hi po without being synthetic?

i was recommended BP corse plus but that is 20-60..
i was thinking sommit like 20-40?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:53 pm 
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did some research.. i really wanted to use a fully synthetic oil, but the cost was just too much at $70 a bottle and i was scared by the "new api" label on mobil 1, and so i went with what was recommended being castrol edge sport at $34
which not to be confused with castrol edge :roll: which varies in price up to about $60 something :)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:58 pm 
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1360cc
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Spaceboy wrote:
did some research.. i really wanted to use a fully synthetic oil, but the cost was just too much at $70 a bottle and i was scared by the "new api" label on mobil 1, and so i went with what was recommended being castrol edge sport at $34
which not to be confused with castrol edge :roll: which varies in price up to about $60 something :)


fully synthetics beat the seals in old engines - so it will leak like a sieve and is not going to do your gearbox any favours.

Stick with dino oil - much kinder to older style engines and want cost you much power.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:50 am 
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I'm now running the KMX 20W/50 oil in the 1360 instead of overpriced Castrol Edge 25W/50- and so far I can't tell the difference. Oil pressure cold or hot is the same. But the oil is $16 for 6L, even cheaper when on special. It looks and smells nearly the same. 8)
Less than 1/2 the price of Castrol, and I dump it at 1500 miles anyway.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:52 am 
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i was recommended BP corse plus but that is 20-60..
i was thinking sommit like 20-40?[/quote]
I have been using BP Corse Plus for years.
Highly recommended. :D
But it is 25w 60.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:32 am 
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998cc
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Location: ASQUITH NSW, Engine size:1310
there was another descution about this and some k mart oil was the big descustion, i think it was lilee and the doc, you said it cost 17bucks a service, 15 for the oil and 2.50 for the filter or something

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 1:18 pm 
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I was wodering the same thing about what oil to use so i refered to the Haynes workshop manual and it says in the book that the recommended oil has been change from SAE 20W/50 to SAE 10W/40. I chose castrol magnatec and honestly it seems a bit to thin for my liking but it works ok. Personally i would have chosen something a bit thicker for these old engines.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 1:40 pm 
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
On the 1330 120hp I use Castrol Formula R 25W50 (the previous branding before it moved to EDGE 25W50). No complaints at all. It works very very well and I would continue to use it if it wasn't $38 a bottle.

When I finish my reserve of Castrol (2 bottles left!!!) I will use KMX 20W50. My engine was dynoed and run in on this oil and it's good stuff.

Now for new info: I talked to a guy who worked at Shell for 25 years. He changed jobs about 2 years ago so subsequently the topic of oil came up :) and he said 99% chance that the KMX oil is refined and mixed at Shell refineries. He said that many of the no name oils are simply relabelling of more expensive oils and KMX was probably one of the better no name oil brands.

The only thing he said to be aware of is this: not all batches of KMX will be the same although their additive blend will be the same, the oil stock could be sourced from a different source each time and quality may vary batch to batch. He says if you buy a bottle from a certain batch and it's good, then buy 12 bottles :lol: I thought that's not a bad idea esp when Kmart have 30% off sale and you can get 6L for $12...

Whatever oil you do use, just make sure you change it often as this is the best way to protect your engine, and everyone seems to agree on that point, even if they don't agree which oil is best.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:11 pm 
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Toasted wrote:
I was wodering the same thing about what oil to use so i refered to the Haynes workshop manual and it says in the book that the recommended oil has been change from SAE 20W/50 to SAE 10W/40. I chose castrol magnatec and honestly it seems a bit to thin for my liking but it works ok. Personally i would have chosen something a bit thicker for these old engines.

Haynes manual is written in UK, for their climate it's probably right.
Out here most stick to 20W/50 all year round.
Magnatec 10W/40 is OK for OHC engines like my Ford, but the cam in a pushrod Mini is hanging up there in the breeze, it needs oil with a bit of cling or the lobes wear out.
I once wore a VP3 cam down so far, the .470" valve lift became .270"... :x

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:18 pm 
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so doc which oil should i use when i have a bmw twin cam head on the A+?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:22 pm 
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1970 mini K wrote:
so doc which oil should i use when i have a bmw twin cam head on the A+?

I'd stick with 20W/50, you still have a Mini gearbox under there acting like a blender. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 3:21 pm 
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if it's cheap, 20w-50 or similar, i'll use it..

I don't have an Image high performance engine and the cheap, mineralstuff works fine for me..

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